I may have two bad actuators. I tried all the tricks without any luck. The big diaphragms I suspect are shot.
I heard back from both Terrell Machine and Steele.
They are both willing to work with me. Of course, the cost has yet to be determined.
If anyone has already taken a unit apart and has a intact bellow, please let me know.
If not, then I will have to hunt one down and cut open a unit to get at the bellows. Then send it to steele to see what they want to duplicate the part. Then off to Terrell to see what it would take to do the replacements.
Anyone interested, please speak up.
From: John Grady <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sometimes the pull of the rod centerline is not aligned well or precisely with the lever on the air box very on these vacuum cans. Then it sticks due to side loading or scraping on the rubber bushing in the can..Erratically of course.. Maybe someone correctly spaced it out with a spacer, non factory, but aligned the rod to be straight with the force and centered on the can, can at right angle so it worked again .
Very related, I found that coating the rod very lightly over the bushing in-out travel part with Dow Corning silicone grease does wonders for these actuators. The rubber gets hard and does not seal well, then the actuator becomes weak due to vacuum leaking around the rod at bushing . The silicone grease helps all of that to work again, reduces friction, softens rubber and helps seal leak. At one time I was looking at adapting similar GM actuators that use bellows, (over this problem) so no leak is possible (better design frankly) ------those , or some, have one vacuum line with a spring load the other way.
Yes ---ours stay where they are when you shut it off. Check the rubber feed hose at engine fitting and at the firewall, they crack from heat under the hood. ,
Just FYI, the stock can seem to work Ok with grease even with hard bushings
Hope this helps,
On Wed, Mar 15, 2023 at 11:37 PM Rich Barber <c300@xxxxxxx> wrote:
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