Re: {Chrysler 300} Request Somewhat time sensitive 300K radio
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Re: {Chrysler 300} Request Somewhat time sensitive 300K radio



only issue with doing it that way is cost , right ? two vendors and who organizes . Plus, The time to do it . 
Maybe we look again at GM one . It was 8-10 years ago i had  these problems , i think it was for a camaro that looked possible with a spring . Easier path ?
i never liked that seal on the rod . that is a poor design . 
another possibility is “ airpot” a glass cylinder type vacuum actuator , beautiful but $ and on small side , real seals . Almost zero friction and no rubber disc. Still less than a rebuild ( guess) . I bought one back then . As you know I did design and make delrin cams for heater switch ( stock is junk , cardboard , even nos no good , softens  very soon ) which got me into actuators as some people who bought the switch thought it leaked ( it does not) but actuators do —
 but like antenna shaft project , fell to wayside . 

Do you have a mity vac ? that tells you about diaphragm, test the side with no rod . The side with rod may leak due to cheap hard seal , can confuse you . I think they accepted a minor  leak there when new . Leaks there can reduce total vacuum in whole system , it does not work at times . 
Hope this helps .

Sent from my iPhone

On Mar 22, 2023, at 7:33 PM, James Douglas <jdd@xxxxxxxxxx> wrote:



John, Terrell Machine does vacuum advance units all day long. They told that they have done some vacuum units, but without the “proper” rubber bellows they have not had good luck with them. Their vacuum advance rubber is stiffer that the AC type units.

 

They are willing to do them if they can get the rubber. If someone has a spare not working unit and wants to cut it open and carefully documents and pull the insides and the seal on the rod and send them to me or directly to Steele Rubber we can get a price quote from them on making them. 

 

James

 

From: John Grady <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wednesday, March 22, 2023 14:39
To: Rich Barber <c300@xxxxxxx>
Cc: James Douglas <jdd@xxxxxxxxxx>; Bob Merritt <Bob@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>; jcauto@xxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: {Chrysler 300} Request Somewhat time sensitive 300K radio

 

James  if you can get the bellows made by someone , you could probably thread the old rod or duplicate it from like thick welding rod or bare brazing rod ( brass) then  you can easily die thread the end . a nut on each side with flat washers . possibly slightly thicker to use old output seal with silicone grease 

I have opened vacuum advance by hand by using a grinder wheel to remove the crimp . 

then you could reassemble with weatherstrip adhesive ; by itself probably ok but add 2  2/56 or 4/40 screws and nuts through the edges ? 

making the bellows is the trick , i dont know if it is a flat diaphragm or literally a bellows.

also look on line at GM ford or jeep bellows even if only one line we could add a spring , plug other line . 

Sent from my iPhone



On Mar 22, 2023, at 3:44 PM, Rich Barber <c300@xxxxxxx> wrote:



James:

 

Certainly interested but can only offer encouragement.  While common, eventually all will fail.   Hopefully, creativity and tooling technology will come up with a repair or replacement of these simple devices.  Grady, Carter, Merritt & etc. : consider the challenge.  You may never make a dime on your solution, but think of the love and deep appreciation.

 

 

Rich Barber

1801 Redwine Terrace

Brentwood CA 94513-6000

c300@xxxxxxx

(H) 925-513-6583

(M) 925-783-4893

 

 

 

 

From: James Douglas <jdd@xxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wednesday, March 22, 2023 10:01 AM
To: John Grady <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>; Rich Barber <c300@xxxxxxx>
Cc: Chrysler 300 List Server <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: {Chrysler 300} Request Somewhat time sensitive 300K radio

 

Hi All,

 

I may have two bad actuators. I tried all the tricks without any luck. The big diaphragms I suspect are shot.

 

I heard back from both Terrell Machine and Steele.

 

They are both willing to work with me. Of course, the cost has yet to be determined.

 

If anyone has already taken a unit apart and has a intact bellow, please let me know.

 

If not, then I will have to hunt one down and cut open a unit to get at the bellows. Then send it to steele to see what they want to duplicate the part.  Then off to Terrell to see what it would take to do the replacements.

 

Anyone interested, please speak up.

 

James

 

From: John Grady <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Saturday, March 18, 2023 08:19
To: Rich Barber <c300@xxxxxxx>
Cc: James Douglas <jdd@xxxxxxxxxx>; Chrysler 300 List Server <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: {Chrysler 300} Request Somewhat time sensitive 300K radio

 

Sometimes the pull of the rod centerline is not aligned well or precisely with the lever on the air box very on these vacuum cans. Then it sticks due to side loading or scraping on the rubber bushing in the can..Erratically of course.. Maybe someone correctly spaced  it out with a spacer, non factory, but aligned the rod to be straight  with the force and centered on the can, can at right angle so it worked again .

 

Very related, I found that coating the rod very lightly over the bushing in-out travel part with Dow Corning silicone grease does wonders for these actuators. The rubber gets hard and does not seal well, then the  actuator becomes weak due to vacuum leaking around the rod at bushing . The silicone grease helps all of that to work again, reduces friction, softens rubber and helps seal leak. At one time I was looking at adapting similar GM actuators that use bellows, (over this problem) so no leak is possible (better design frankly) ------those , or some, have one vacuum line with a spring load the other way.

 

Yes ---ours stay where they are when you shut it off. Check the rubber feed hose at engine fitting and at the firewall, they crack from heat under the hood. , 

 

Just FYI, the stock can seem to work Ok with grease even with hard bushings 

Hope this helps,

John G

 

On Wed, Mar 15, 2023 at 11:37 PM Rich Barber <c300@xxxxxxx> wrote:

I believe the vacuum actuators use vacuum to open or close the doors, so doors will stay in place when the engine stops and will stay there.

 

Rich

 

From: 'James Douglas' via Chrysler 300 Club International <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wednesday, March 15, 2023 6:18 PM
To: Rich Barber <c300@xxxxxxx>
Cc: Chrysler 300 List Server (chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx) <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: {Chrysler 300} Request Somewhat time sensitive 300K radio

 

Thanks Guys,

 

Since I have the entire cluster out…

 

I pulled the tape off the top of the plastic and sure enough they plugged it directly to the back of the fuse spade.

 

I am going to make up a 18 inch wire to place on that spade with a connector so one can pull the radio out and then just disconnect the wire.

 

Now I have another issue.  I pulled that vacuum can off the actuator door and tested  it and it works.

 

BUT…

 

There are two large NUTS used as spacers on the shaft of the vacuum can to the mounting bracket. It does NOT look like the one in the service manual as it pulls/pushes up and down and not side to side.

 

I have some vague memory of seeing this on my other 300K.  Can anyone tell me if this is a factory “fix”.

 

Also, when installed and the engine off is the door supposed to be closed or open on AC cars.  The “over-center” on the door only locks on open not on closed.

 

If anyone can enlighten me, please do.

 

Thanks all, James.

 

From: Rich Barber <c300@xxxxxxx>
Sent: Wednesday, March 15, 2023 18:01
To: James Douglas <jdd@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: {Chrysler 300} Request Somewhat time sensitive 300K radio

 

My recollection is that there are a number of connections to my Touch-Tuner seven-button AM radio. Hot wire from “RADIO” fuse, a wire from the dimmer circuit for the lights, antenna cable, wires out  for front speaker and to the reverb/back speaker switch and a pair of wires with a plug connector to a foot-operated switch to change stations.  All had easy disconnects or connectors to “facilitate” removal.  Should be no need to add a hot wire to fusebox.

 

 

I have several instrument panels with PC boards & etc. if you come up short.  Also some ideas to assure good performance of the boards if needed.

 

Rich Barber

Acting Director

Chrysler 300 Club, Inc.

1801 Redwine Terrace

Brentwood CA 94513-6000

c300@xxxxxxx

(H) 925-513-6583

(M) 925-783-4893

www.chrysler300clubinc.com

 

 

 

 

 

From: 'James Douglas' via Chrysler 300 Club International <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wednesday, March 15, 2023 5:16 PM
To: Chrysler 300 List Server (chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx) <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: {Chrysler 300} Request Somewhat time sensitive 300K radio
Importance: High

 

Hi All,

 

We have had a break in the rain here in San Francisco. I decided to pull the dash here, rather than up at my place with more, now I have can of worms. I wanted to replace the circuit boards on the cluster with the new manufacture ones I pickup off of eBay.

 

I took out the speaker as I want to look at the wiper assembly and to check the ventilator door. Turn out the vent door screw are loose and so the door is not operating as it should.

 

The screws on the door vacuum bracket angle down and there is no way to get a screwdriver on there, I did try an angle one, with the radio in.

 

So, I go to pull the radio and it will not come out. AM. 

 

There is a wire that does not have a disconnect and it looks like it is going into the back of the fuse box. Why the hell would the factory hard wire that in?

 

In any event, do I have to pry the plastic off the back of the fuse box to see if there is a connector in there or is it better to just cut the wire and plan on creating a wire coupling.

 

I have about an hour or so of light left. If anyone is reading this now (17:13 hours pacific) and can advise, please do…thanks.

 

James

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