Re: {Chrysler 300} Request Somewhat time sensitive 300K radio

Check the archives, a company in AU rebuilds these regularly. I bought NOS at Hilltop.

Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device

-------- Original message --------

From: 'James Douglas' via Chrysler 300 Club International <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>

Date: 3/18/23 11:06 AM (GMT-06:00)

To: John Grady <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>, Rich Barber <c300@xxxxxxx>

Cc: Chrysler 300 List Server <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>

Subject: RE: {Chrysler 300} Request Somewhat time sensitive 300K radio

I talked with the folks at Terrell Machine in TX that does my vacuum advance can rebuilds, They said they have not had good luck trying to rebuild these as their material is too stiff.

I am thinking of asking Steele Rubber what the minimum order would be for new rubber for these cans. With new rubber Terrell should be able to rebuild them.

James

From: John Grady <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Saturday, March 18, 2023 08:19
To: Rich Barber <c300@xxxxxxx>
Cc: James Douglas <jdd@xxxxxxxxxx>; Chrysler 300 List Server <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: {Chrysler 300} Request Somewhat time sensitive 300K radio

Sometimes the pull of the rod centerline is not aligned well or precisely with the lever on the air box very on these vacuum cans. Then it sticks due to side loading or scraping on the rubber bushing in the can..Erratically of course.. Maybe someone correctly spaced it out with a spacer, non factory, but aligned the rod to be straight with the force and centered on the can, can at right angle so it worked again .

Very related, I found that coating the rod very lightly over the bushing in-out travel part with Dow Corning silicone grease does wonders for these actuators. The rubber gets hard and does not seal well, then the actuator becomes weak due to vacuum leaking around the rod at bushing . The silicone grease helps all of that to work again, reduces friction, softens rubber and helps seal leak. At one time I was looking at adapting similar GM actuators that use bellows, (over this problem) so no leak is possible (better design frankly) ------those , or some, have one vacuum line with a spring load the other way.

Yes ---ours stay where they are when you shut it off. Check the rubber feed hose at engine fitting and at the firewall, they crack from heat under the hood. ,

Just FYI, the stock can seem to work Ok with grease even with hard bushings

Hope this helps,

John G

On Wed, Mar 15, 2023 at 11:37 PM Rich Barber <c300@xxxxxxx> wrote:

I believe the vacuum actuators use vacuum to open or close the doors, so doors will stay in place when the engine stops and will stay there.

Rich

From: 'James Douglas' via Chrysler 300 Club International <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wednesday, March 15, 2023 6:18 PM
To: Rich Barber <c300@xxxxxxx>
Cc: Chrysler 300 List Server (chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx) <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: {Chrysler 300} Request Somewhat time sensitive 300K radio

Thanks Guys,

Since I have the entire cluster out…

I pulled the tape off the top of the plastic and sure enough they plugged it directly to the back of the fuse spade.

I am going to make up a 18 inch wire to place on that spade with a connector so one can pull the radio out and then just disconnect the wire.

Now I have another issue. I pulled that vacuum can off the actuator door and tested it and it works.

BUT…

There are two large NUTS used as spacers on the shaft of the vacuum can to the mounting bracket. It does NOT look like the one in the service manual as it pulls/pushes up and down and not side to side.

I have some vague memory of seeing this on my other 300K. Can anyone tell me if this is a factory “fix”.

Also, when installed and the engine off is the door supposed to be closed or open on AC cars. The “over-center” on the door only locks on open not on closed.

If anyone can enlighten me, please do.

Thanks all, James.

From: Rich Barber <c300@xxxxxxx>
Sent: Wednesday, March 15, 2023 18:01
To: James Douglas <jdd@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: {Chrysler 300} Request Somewhat time sensitive 300K radio

My recollection is that there are a number of connections to my Touch-Tuner seven-button AM radio. Hot wire from “RADIO” fuse, a wire from the dimmer circuit for the lights, antenna cable, wires out for front speaker and to the reverb/back speaker switch and a pair of wires with a plug connector to a foot-operated switch to change stations. All had easy disconnects or connectors to “facilitate” removal. Should be no need to add a hot wire to fusebox.

I have several instrument panels with PC boards & etc. if you come up short. Also some ideas to assure good performance of the boards if needed.

Rich Barber

Acting Director

Chrysler 300 Club, Inc.

1801 Redwine Terrace

Brentwood CA 94513-6000

c300@xxxxxxx

(H) 925-513-6583

(M) 925-783-4893

www.chrysler300clubinc.com

From: 'James Douglas' via Chrysler 300 Club International <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wednesday, March 15, 2023 5:16 PM
To: Chrysler 300 List Server (chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx) <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: {Chrysler 300} Request Somewhat time sensitive 300K radio
Importance: High

Hi All,

We have had a break in the rain here in San Francisco. I decided to pull the dash here, rather than up at my place with more, now I have can of worms. I wanted to replace the circuit boards on the cluster with the new manufacture ones I pickup off of eBay.

I took out the speaker as I want to look at the wiper assembly and to check the ventilator door. Turn out the vent door screw are loose and so the door is not operating as it should.

The screws on the door vacuum bracket angle down and there is no way to get a screwdriver on there, I did try an angle one, with the radio in.

So, I go to pull the radio and it will not come out. AM.

There is a wire that does not have a disconnect and it looks like it is going into the back of the fuse box. Why the hell would the factory hard wire that in?

In any event, do I have to pry the plastic off the back of the fuse box to see if there is a connector in there or is it better to just cut the wire and plan on creating a wire coupling.

I have about an hour or so of light left. If anyone is reading this now (17:13 hours pacific) and can advise, please do…thanks.

James

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