I believe they are talking about the RB in this discussion. As I have mentioned before on the poly the bolts the bolts over the exhaust pushrods can contact the pushrod if they are too long. Look at it with the valve covers off and you can easily see the issue. Just be careful not to make those bolts too long. I inadvertently attached the engine hoist with any old bolts to those holes and bent a couple pushrods in the past. I'm smarter now although it might not show :-)--On Sun, Sep 21, 2014 at 8:07 PM, 'Stan Kafouse' via The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:There is one very important thing to remember.... I didn't and neither did any one else, wake up one day and know anything. All my friends are older than me, they bought these cars new, I also have the distinct capability to keep my mouth shut and listen. It also helps that all my friends are much smarter then me. When they started to ask me how to fix something was such a confidence builder for me. These people I admire want my opinion, WOW. Today I just took apart and rebuilt my first cast iron T-Flite. ( Have never even seen one till yesterday) I look at a project like that as just a new piece of ass. Meaning some people will say I wont do that because Ive never done that before. Well how are you supposed to learn? When you got your first piece of ass, did you tell her to put her pants back on? Probably not, hence a new problem/project is just a new piece to me. I may not know the answer but I can find it.ANOTHER small piece of my massive store of ignorance enlightened! Thanks!!
BC
On 9/21/2014 5:35 PM, JimJablonski wrote:
2x the ability to fit a 12pt box wrench on in tight spaces.
On Sunday, September 21, 2014 6:13:13 PM UTC-4, 64ragtop wrote:And my education continues... Thanks, Stan. Though I don't understand why not just a smaller hex head on a screw for a tight space.
What's superior about 12 points over 6 points, other than fattening tool sellers bottom lines?
BC
On 9/21/2014 3:46 PM, 'Stan Kafouse' via The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse wrote:
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to 1962to1965mopa...@ googlegroups.com.--The 12 point screws (its not a bolt until you put a nut on it) is for tight spaces where a regular head wont go. In 1972 Chrysler started using a different intake bolt with a nub on the end to line up the intake. If you bought intake screws for a big block and not a small block, that may be the culprit. The screws are just to short to get proper thread engagement and properly crush the intake gasket. There is a trick to lining up the intake ports to the cylinder head ports to assure no port mismatch, on a street engine may not matter unless you want that last HP.
On Sunday, September 21, 2014 4:18 PM, Bob <64r...@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
HHMmmm, There's one for the reference files! Stripped head bolt(s?) causing leakage under the valve covers, making pinpointing the leak impossible. I wonder if the ARP bolts not threaded--
the full length of the shaft contributed. I've removed the last few threads and rounded the end of the shaft on bolts to make finding the hole and starting the thread easier. It seems to work,
especially with long bolts or threaded rod where there's no visibility or guidance. I've never understood the 12 point bolt heads, except as a way to make us buy sockets with no other use.
BC
On 9/21/2014 1:45 PM, JimJablonski wrote:
Definitely feel like I am on the right track thanks to tons of help. It will be next Saturday before I get a chance to put it back together - I'll send an update, for sure.--
Regarding the intake bolts, we might want to file this one in the lessons-learned bank. I purchased/installed ARP part # 144-2101 named "Bolts, Intake Manifold, Chromoly, Black Oxide, 12-Point Head, Chrysler, Big Block, Kit."
Take a look at them compared to the 3/8-16 x 1 3/4 bolts from the hardware store (attached). Let's not even bring up that the ARP bolts were $36 and I got out of the hardware store for I think $11, including the Snickers bar I chomped on the way home given the wife wasn't with me.
On Sunday, September 21, 2014 11:05:44 AM UTC-4, carv...@xxxxxxx wrote:Way to go Jim! I have to go out in the garage now and check the bolts for my new intake!......
What great interaction! Just a bunch of well wishers trying to help one of their own.
Lyle
On Sunday, September 14, 2014 5:33:07 PM UTC-4, JimJablonski wrote:Well. I finally got the stroker to light up, but I've got some issues. I hope it's not serious, but it doesn't sound good. I had to advance the timing to about 50 degrees to get it to start, and after break-in, I can't get it to idle below about 1,800 RPM. And there is an obvious miss when you kick the throttle. My 1st thought on the idle was a vacuum leak, but I ran some propane around the intake and nothing happened. The timing and the miss have me concerned. Could I have possibly screwed up the timing chain marks? Any thoughts?
The good news is I have awesome oil pressue and no leaks. It sounds freaking wicked. Here's a video:
Thanks,
Jim
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Rich Kinsley '64 Dodge Polara 4dr 318poly w/goodies
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