Spread the torque on the bolt( screw) Over 12 points
instead of just 6. Better to loosen a 6 sided screw with a 6 point socket
than a 12 point. Less chance of rounding the corners off.
As for the intake manifold bolts length-- Isn't
an aluminum intake bolt flange thicker than a factory cast iron one? Therefor
needing a longer length...................MO
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Sunday, September 21, 2014 5:12
PM
Subject: Re: Stroker lit up, but I have
issues
And my education continues... Thanks, Stan. Though
I don't understand why not just a smaller hex head on a screw for a tight
space. What's superior about 12 points over 6 points, other than
fattening tool sellers bottom lines?
BC
On 9/21/2014 3:46 PM, 'Stan Kafouse' via The 1962
to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse wrote:
The 12 point screws (its not a bolt until you put a nut on it) is
for tight spaces where a regular head wont go. In 1972 Chrysler started
using a different intake bolt with a nub on the end to line up the
intake. If you bought intake screws for a big block and not a small
block, that may be the culprit. The screws are just to short to get proper
thread engagement and properly crush the intake gasket. There is a
trick to lining up the intake ports to the cylinder head ports to
assure no port mismatch, on a street engine may not matter unless you want
that last HP.
HHMmmm, There's one for the reference files! Stripped head
bolt(s?) causing leakage under the valve covers, making pinpointing the leak
impossible. I wonder if the ARP bolts not threaded the full length
of the shaft contributed. I've removed the last few threads and
rounded the end of the shaft on bolts to make finding the hole and starting
the thread easier. It seems to work, especially with long bolts or
threaded rod where there's no visibility or guidance. I've never
understood the 12 point bolt heads, except as a way to make us buy sockets
with no other use. BC
On 9/21/2014 1:45 PM, JimJablonski
wrote:
Definitely feel like I am on the right track thanks to tons
of help. It will be next Saturday before I get a chance to put it
back together - I'll send an update, for sure.
Regarding the intake bolts, we might want to file this one in the
lessons-learned bank. I purchased/installed ARP part # 144-2101
named "Bolts, Intake Manifold, Chromoly, Black Oxide, 12-Point Head,
Chrysler, Big Block, Kit."
Take a look at them compared to the 3/8-16 x 1 3/4 bolts from the
hardware store (attached). Let's not even bring up that the ARP
bolts were $36 and I got out of the hardware store for I think $11,
including the Snickers bar I chomped on the way home given the wife wasn't
with me.
On Sunday, September 21, 2014 11:05:44 AM UTC-4, carv...@xxxxxxx wrote:
Way to go Jim! I have to go out in the garage now and
check the bolts for my new intake!......
What great interaction! Just a bunch of well wishers trying to help
one of their own.
Lyle On Sunday, September 14, 2014 5:33:07 PM UTC-4,
JimJablonski wrote:
Well. I finally got the stroker to light up, but I've got
some issues. I hope it's not serious, but it doesn't sound good.
I had to advance the timing to about 50 degrees to get it to
start, and after break-in, I can't get it to idle below about 1,800
RPM. And there is an obvious miss when you kick the throttle.
My 1st thought on the idle was a vacuum leak, but I ran some
propane around the intake and nothing happened. The timing and
the miss have me concerned. Could I have possibly screwed up the
timing chain marks? Any thoughts?
The good news is I have awesome oil pressue and no leaks.
It sounds freaking wicked. Here's a video:
Thanks,
Jim --
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