ANOTHER small piece of my massive store of ignorance enlightened!
Thanks!!
BC
On 9/21/2014 5:35 PM, JimJablonski
wrote:
2x the ability to fit a 12pt box wrench on in tight
spaces.
On Sunday, September 21, 2014 6:13:13 PM UTC-4, 64ragtop
wrote:
And my education
continues... Thanks, Stan. Though I don't understand why
not just a smaller hex head on a screw for a tight space.
What's superior about 12 points over 6 points, other than
fattening tool sellers bottom lines?
BC
On 9/21/2014 3:46 PM, 'Stan Kafouse' via The 1962 to
1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse wrote:
The 12 point screws (its not a bolt until
you put a nut on it) is for tight spaces where a
regular head wont go. In 1972 Chrysler started
using a different intake bolt with a nub on the
end to line up the intake. If you bought intake
screws for a big block and not a small block, that
may be the culprit. The screws are just to short
to get proper thread engagement and properly crush
the intake gasket. There is a trick to lining up
the intake ports to the cylinder head ports to
assure no port mismatch, on a street engine may
not matter unless you want that last HP.
HHMmmm, There's one for the reference
files! Stripped head bolt(s?) causing
leakage under the valve covers, making
pinpointing the leak impossible. I wonder
if the ARP bolts not threaded
the full length of the shaft contributed.
I've removed the last few threads and
rounded the end of the shaft on bolts to
make finding the hole and starting the
thread easier. It seems to work,
especially with long bolts or threaded rod
where there's no visibility or guidance.
I've never understood the 12 point bolt
heads, except as a way to make us buy
sockets with no other use.
BC
On 9/21/2014 1:45 PM, JimJablonski
wrote:
Definitely feel like I am
on the right track thanks to tons of
help. It will be next Saturday before
I get a chance to put it back together
- I'll send an update, for sure.
Regarding the intake bolts, we
might want to file this one in the
lessons-learned bank. I
purchased/installed ARP part #
144-2101 named "Bolts, Intake
Manifold, Chromoly, Black Oxide,
12-Point Head, Chrysler, Big Block,
Kit."
Take a look at them compared to
the 3/8-16 x 1 3/4 bolts from the
hardware store (attached). Let's
not even bring up that the ARP bolts
were $36 and I got out of the
hardware store for I think $11,
including the Snickers bar I chomped
on the way home given the wife
wasn't with me.
![]()
On Sunday, September 21, 2014
11:05:44 AM UTC-4, carv...@xxxxxxx
wrote:
Way to go Jim! I
have to go out in the garage now
and check the bolts for my new
intake!......
What great interaction!
Just a bunch of well wishers
trying to help one of their
own.
Lyle
On Sunday, September 14, 2014
5:33:07 PM UTC-4, JimJablonski
wrote:
Well. I
finally got the stroker to
light up, but I've got
some issues. I hope it's
not serious, but it
doesn't sound good. I had
to advance the timing to
about 50 degrees to get it
to start, and after
break-in, I can't get it
to idle below about 1,800
RPM. And there is an
obvious miss when you kick
the throttle. My 1st
thought on the idle was a
vacuum leak, but I ran
some propane around the
intake and nothing
happened. The timing and
the miss have me
concerned. Could I have
possibly screwed up the
timing chain marks? Any
thoughts?
The good news is I
have awesome oil pressue
and no leaks. It sounds
freaking wicked. Here's
a video:
Thanks,
Jim
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