And my education continues... Thanks, Stan. Though I don't
understand why not just a smaller hex head on a screw for a tight
space.
What's superior about 12 points over 6 points, other than fattening
tool sellers bottom lines?
BC
On 9/21/2014 3:46 PM, 'Stan Kafouse'
via The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse wrote:
The 12 point screws (its not a bolt until you put a
nut on it) is for tight spaces where a regular head wont go.
In 1972 Chrysler started using a different intake bolt with
a nub on the end to line up the intake. If you bought
intake screws for a big block and not a small block, that
may be the culprit. The screws are just to short to get
proper thread engagement and properly crush the intake
gasket. There is a trick to lining up the intake ports to
the cylinder head ports to assure no port mismatch, on a
street engine may not matter unless you want that last HP.
HHMmmm, There's one for the reference files!
Stripped head bolt(s?) causing leakage under the
valve covers, making pinpointing the leak
impossible. I wonder if the ARP bolts not threaded
the full length of the shaft contributed. I've
removed the last few threads and rounded the end of
the shaft on bolts to make finding the hole and
starting the thread easier. It seems to work,
especially with long bolts or threaded rod where
there's no visibility or guidance. I've never
understood the 12 point bolt heads, except as a way
to make us buy sockets with no other use.
BC
On
9/21/2014 1:45 PM, JimJablonski wrote:
Definitely feel like I am on the
right track thanks to tons of help. It will be
next Saturday before I get a chance to put it
back together - I'll send an update, for sure.
Regarding the intake bolts, we might want
to file this one in the lessons-learned bank.
I purchased/installed ARP part # 144-2101
named "Bolts, Intake Manifold, Chromoly, Black
Oxide, 12-Point Head, Chrysler, Big Block,
Kit."
Take a look at them compared to the 3/8-16
x 1 3/4 bolts from the hardware store
(attached). Let's not even bring up that the
ARP bolts were $36 and I got out of the
hardware store for I think $11, including the
Snickers bar I chomped on the way home given
the wife wasn't with me.
![]()
On Sunday, September 21, 2014 11:05:44 AM
UTC-4, carv...@xxxxxxx
wrote:
Way to go Jim! I have to go
out in the garage now and check the bolts
for my new intake!......
What great interaction! Just a bunch
of well wishers trying to help one of
their own.
Lyle
On Sunday, September 14, 2014 5:33:07 PM
UTC-4, JimJablonski wrote:
Well. I finally got the
stroker to light up, but I've got
some issues. I hope it's not
serious, but it doesn't sound good.
I had to advance the timing to
about 50 degrees to get it to start,
and after break-in, I can't get it
to idle below about 1,800 RPM. And
there is an obvious miss when you
kick the throttle. My 1st thought
on the idle was a vacuum leak, but I
ran some propane around the intake
and nothing happened. The timing
and the miss have me concerned.
Could I have possibly screwed up
the timing chain marks? Any
thoughts?
The good news is I have awesome
oil pressue and no leaks. It
sounds freaking wicked. Here's a
video:
Thanks,
Jim
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