Thanks Gary.
I already disassembled the front end, but I notice I did not
follow step 3 correctly, hope I did not damage the lower ball
joint but I am installing new ones anyway....
I was checking to see if anyone had changed any upper ball
joints lately because I was informed by an old mechanic that
those upper ball joints are a bear to remove. Earlier today I
ordered an Mopar ball joint impact socket that I can use with my
high power impact wrench, so we will see. Maybe they will come
right out, or not. I will let you know how it goes.
> From:
62to65mopar@xxxxxxxxxxx
> To:
1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: Changing upper ball joints
> Date: Sat, 20 Aug 2011 20:28:11 +0000
>
> Returning member Ben asked about this procedure. I was
looking into this topic myself. Below is one method, excerpted
from this source:
>
http://wiki.answers.com/Q/How_do_you_Replace_the_ball_joints_on_an_old_mopar_ABE_body.
> It is talking about both upper and lower ball joints.
>
> Any corrections / other methods welcome!
>
> ===
> Back off the torsion bar adjusters....Make sure they're
loose in their mounting slots so that no tension remains on
the front end components.
>
> 1. Remove brake drum, caliper, and/or rotor. On a drum
brake car, you don't need to worry about removing the brake
line from the cylinder, or the cylinder from the backing
plate. They will all come off as an assembly in the next step.
> 2. Remove the two large bolts from the lower ball joint.
Note how these bolts sandwich brake components together so you
can reassemble them in the correct order later.
> 3. Remove the lower ball joint's cotter pin from the
tapered shaft, and back the nut off 2-3 turns. Do not fully
remove the nut at this point. Place the proper puller over the
spindle and press the tapered shaft out. Make sure to get one
of the small, thick-armed puller designed especially for this.
Using the typical hinged "gear puller" will cause you a lot of
grief. Believe me; it's worth it to get the correct puller!
Obviously, you'll need to remove the nut before you can go any
further. I leave the nut on during this operation to avoid
damaging the threads while using the puller. This will
completely separate the lower ball joint from the car.
> 4. Pull the upper tapered shaft the same as you did with
the lower ball joint.
> 5. Next is the special socket that fits over the upper
ball joint. The ball joints have very shallow threads formed
into their sides that pull them into the control arms, so
they're unscrewed just like a huge, short bolt....
> ===
>
> Thanks,
> Gary H.
>
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