RE: Changing upper ball joints
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RE: Changing upper ball joints



Thanks for the responses all.
 
The socket I bought is for B body and 1/2" drive for home hobby use, hope it is up to the task. If the impact gun won't work I will try to use a pipe with the breaker bar.
 
 If all else fails I suppose I can throw in the towel and take the control arms to a local machine shop, I guess, if I have to....
 
-Ben
 

From: satellite1965@xxxxxxxxxxx
To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Changing upper ball joints
Date: Sun, 21 Aug 2011 12:38:37 -0500

I bet you can borrow a socket from Auto Zone. They have the cheapest upper ball joints. I got a big 3/4 breaker bar.
Ollie
 
From: Don
Sent: Sunday, August 21, 2011 10:30 AM
Subject: Re: Changing upper ball joints
 
I got a 1/2 in to 3/4 adapter at Sears.  Works great with my commercial impact gun and Miller large ball joint socket.  As previously mentioned, it's easier to leave the control arm on the car when removing/installing the ball joints.

On 8/21/2011 10:01 AM, a440plus6 wrote:
Yea, plus every ball joint socket I've ever seen is 3/4 inch drive which a lot of hobbiest don't have a 3/4 inch socket set.

On Sun, Aug 21, 2011 at 9:57 AM, Gary H. <62to65mopar@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Yup. An alternative, especially if the special ball joint socket is not available to someone, is to take the control arms and new ball joints to a spring and suspension shop. That shop will take off and put in the new ball joints for not much money.

Thanks,
Gary H.

>  -------Original Message-------
>
>  Yep, it better be a very HIGH impact gun, professional grade. I don't
>  know how you are set up for shop equipment but what I do is get the
>  control arm chucked up in a big vise that's firmly attached to one of
>  my work benches and use a breaker bar along with a long extension for
>  it....like a 4 foot piece of steel pipe that will fit over the handle.
>  It's usually still very hard....I use AreoKroil penetrating fluid to
>  help lubing. 


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1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
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Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
 
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
 
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
 
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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