Thanks Gary.
I already disassembled the front end, but I notice I did not
follow step 3 correctly, hope I did not damage the lower ball
joint but I am installing new ones anyway....
I was checking to see if anyone had changed any upper ball
joints lately because I was informed by an old mechanic that
those upper ball joints are a bear to remove. Earlier today I
ordered an Mopar ball joint impact socket that I can use with
my high power impact wrench, so we will see. Maybe they will
come right out, or not. I will let you know how it goes.
> From:
62to65mopar@xxxxxxxxxxx
> To:
1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: Changing upper ball joints
> Date: Sat, 20 Aug 2011 20:28:11 +0000
>
> Returning member Ben asked about this procedure. I was
looking into this topic myself. Below is one method,
excerpted from this source:
>
http://wiki.answers.com/Q/How_do_you_Replace_the_ball_joints_on_an_old_mopar_ABE_body.
> It is talking about both upper and lower ball joints.
>
> Any corrections / other methods welcome!
>
> ===
> Back off the torsion bar adjusters....Make sure they're
loose in their mounting slots so that no tension remains on
the front end components.
>
> 1. Remove brake drum, caliper, and/or rotor. On a drum
brake car, you don't need to worry about removing the brake
line from the cylinder, or the cylinder from the backing
plate. They will all come off as an assembly in the next
step.
> 2. Remove the two large bolts from the lower ball
joint. Note how these bolts sandwich brake components
together so you can reassemble them in the correct order
later.
> 3. Remove the lower ball joint's cotter pin from the
tapered shaft, and back the nut off 2-3 turns. Do not fully
remove the nut at this point. Place the proper puller over
the spindle and press the tapered shaft out. Make sure to
get one of the small, thick-armed puller designed especially
for this. Using the typical hinged "gear puller" will cause
you a lot of grief. Believe me; it's worth it to get the
correct puller! Obviously, you'll need to remove the nut
before you can go any further. I leave the nut on during
this operation to avoid damaging the threads while using the
puller. This will completely separate the lower ball joint
from the car.
> 4. Pull the upper tapered shaft the same as you did
with the lower ball joint.
> 5. Next is the special socket that fits over the upper
ball joint. The ball joints have very shallow threads formed
into their sides that pull them into the control arms, so
they're unscrewed just like a huge, short bolt....
> ===
>
> Thanks,
> Gary H.
>
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