Ahh, i remember about the security driver now...I simply snapped the pins off and used a standard driver (some security, eh? took me about 20 seconds!) ATF+3 is 7176, it's just a different designation. On the bottles I got it said ATF+3 in big bold print, then 7176 right by it. I used RTV on the pan, as my dealer told me there was no gasket. However, based on things I've heard and experienced, my dealer may not be the most proficient.. As far as the ABS system, I don't know. I do know that I have a brand new (well, 10,000 miles brand new now) Bosch system in my car, that looks nothing like the stock systems that came in this car. If I have time, I'll get a couple pictures put together. -Jason On Sat, 01 Jan 2005 16:46:29 -0600, Brad Hogg <roadhogg@xxxxxxx> wrote: > Jason. A couple things I am curious about. Maybe you can set me straight. > > I was under the impression that the Bosch ABS system was the earlier of the > two and the Bendix replaced the Bosch. > > According to my Mopar dealer, ATF+3 is apparently the "off the shelf" > equivalent to the Mopar 7176 transmission fluid. > > I've read in the Technical Service Bulletins that the A604 did not come with > a transmission oil pan gasket but that one was produced later on by Mopar. > Normally, the transmission oil pan was simply put on with black RTV sealant. > My Mopar dealer told me that as well. A different trusted source said that > the Mopar brand of RTV is VERY good and he will use nothing but. > > I've also had my ignition lock break. It's a pretty easy fix. A "security" > torx screwdriver comes in handy if one needs to remove the ignition switch > assembly though. > > Please quote this message in your reply. Otherwise I will be unable to > reply to your message. Thanks. > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Jason Wulf" <jrwulf@xxxxxxxxx> > To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> > Sent: Saturday, January 01, 2005 1:54 PM > Subject: Re: IML: Seeking 1993 Imperial Advice > > My 1990 had the conversion done to the newer Bosch style system, and > they work /fabulously/. If in fact it does have the old Bendix system > (which, oddly, reminds me of the Early electric powered Hydroboost GM > brakes, which had about the same reliability), I would swap it ASAP > whether you have working brakes or not. The pump and other parts have > warranties, but to fix the whole system expect to shell out a bit of > money. As far as stopping, I would think that if you have a decent > master cylinder, you should be able to stop even with the system dead, > but be prepared to have problems if both the ABS and BRAKE lights are > on. If the rest of the car is just wonderful, I would consider it > worth the price of the conversion. Here's a couple other things I'd > check for: > > * Slow shifting into gear, or hard shifting into gear -- Have someone > run the tool on your transmission, because depending on how hard it > was driven, and just how many miles you have, those were always a weak > point on the early 90's chryslers. Look at the fluid too, if it's > pink or brown, it's dexron, which is an EXTREMELY bad thing. If it's > blood or darker red, it's probably 7176, which is the only fluid to > put in this transmission. If you suspect that it's anything but 7176, > have it swapped also ASAP. The thermal characteristics of 7176 aren't > duplicated in any other fluid as far as I'm aware. > > * Oil pan leaks -- The 3.3L was worse than the 3.8 in this regard, > but if the pan gasket has never been changed, it'll probably start > leaking after 100K. Not a big deal necessarily (other than when it > goes, it will just dump oil out like you wouldn't believe...) but > definitely a bargaining point > > * Ignition lock cylinder -- In my imperial, and according to the > service department at my local stealership, cars like ours that are > driven two miles back and forth to church every sunday by our > grandparents are subject to this failing. Check when you run the key > if it feels like it grinds a lot. Mine did, and I didn't think much > about it, but one morning I went to start my car, and when I turned > the key instead of my car turning on, I heard a *crack* and the plug > that moves the switch in back had broken off. If it does this, drop > me a line, I can tell you exactly how to fix it without pulling the > wheel =). > > * Busted speakers -- Take your favorite tape, or CD with you, and > check out the stereo. Fade it to each speaker with something playing > that will test the full spectrum of each speaker, and see if any of > them are blown. Just another bargaining point for you. > > Those are the only major issues that I've ever heard about, good luck! > > -Jason > > > ----------------- http://www.imperialclub.com ----------------- > This message was sent to you by the Imperial Mailing List. Please > reply to mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and your response will be > shared with everyone. Private messages (and attachments) for the > Administrators should be sent to webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx > To UN-SUBSCRIBE, go to http://imperialclub.com/unsubscribe.htm > > ----------------- http://www.imperialclub.com ----------------- This message was sent to you by the Imperial Mailing List. Please reply to mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and your response will be shared with everyone. 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