Re: IML: Seeking 1993 Imperial Advice

[Jason Wulf <jrwulf@xxxxxxxxx>]

My 1990 had the conversion done to the newer Bosch style system, and
they work /fabulously/.  If in fact it does have the old Bendix system
(which, oddly, reminds me of the Early electric powered Hydroboost GM
brakes, which had about the same reliability), I would swap it ASAP
whether you have working brakes or not.  The pump and other parts have
warranties, but to fix the whole system expect to shell out a bit of
money.  As far as stopping, I would think that if you have a decent
master cylinder, you should be able to stop even with the system dead,
but be prepared to have problems if both the ABS and BRAKE lights are
on.   If the rest of the car is just wonderful, I would consider it
worth the price of the conversion.  Here's a couple other things I'd
check for:

*  Slow shifting into gear, or hard shifting into gear -- Have someone
run the tool on your transmission, because depending on how hard it
was driven, and just how many miles you have, those were always a weak
point on the early 90's chryslers.  Look at the fluid too, if it's
pink or brown, it's dexron, which is an EXTREMELY bad thing.  If it's
blood or darker red, it's probably 7176, which is the only fluid to
put in this transmission.  If you suspect that it's anything but 7176,
have it swapped also ASAP.  The thermal characteristics of 7176 aren't
duplicated in any other fluid as far as I'm aware.

*  Oil pan leaks -- The 3.3L was worse than the 3.8 in this regard,
but if the pan gasket has never been changed, it'll probably start
leaking after 100K.  Not a big deal necessarily (other than when it
goes, it will just dump oil out like you wouldn't believe...) but
definitely a bargaining point

*  Ignition lock cylinder -- In my imperial, and according to the
service department at my local stealership, cars like ours that are
driven two miles back and forth to church every sunday by our
grandparents are subject to this failing.  Check when you run the key
if it feels like it grinds a lot.  Mine did, and I didn't think much
about it, but one morning I went to start my car, and when I turned
the key instead of my car turning on, I heard a *crack* and the plug
that moves the switch in back had broken off.  If it does this, drop
me a line, I can tell you exactly how to fix it without pulling the
wheel =).

* Busted speakers -- Take your favorite tape, or CD with you, and
check out the stereo.  Fade it to each speaker with something playing
that will test the full spectrum of each speaker, and see if any of
them are blown.  Just another bargaining point for you.

Those are the only major issues that I've ever heard about, good luck!

-Jason
On Wed, 29 Dec 2004 23:29:13 EST, Tharn211@xxxxxxx <Tharn211@xxxxxxx> wrote:
>  
> This Friday, I will be checking out a 1993 Imperial for sale in another
> state with the intention of purchasing it; I believe that I have a good idea
> about its condition from the numerous photographs I have seen of it, and the
> dealer who owns it has been very prompt in answering all my questions about
> it; however, he did mention that the brake light and the ABS light are on,
> although he states that the brakes feel fine when he has driven it; since
> the ABS is one of several Achilles heels in the 1990s Imperials, would
> anybody have a suggestion as to a very quick and very simple way that I and
> my friends who will be accompanying me could determine that the brakes do
> indeed work properly; because of the distance involved in travel and the
> early closure of the dealer for New Year's Eve, we anticipate arriving
> shortly before the dealer closes for the day after a very long drive.  Thank
> you for your assistance.
>   
>                                                Dan Leese 
>                                                Nashville, TN 
>                                                1958 Imperial Crown 2 door HT
> with dual AC


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