Re: IML: Seeking 1993 Imperial Advice

[Brad Hogg <roadhogg@xxxxxxx>]

Jason.  A couple things I am curious about.  Maybe you can set me straight.

I was under the impression that the Bosch ABS system was the earlier of the
two and the Bendix replaced the Bosch.

According to my Mopar dealer, ATF+3 is apparently the "off the shelf"
equivalent to the Mopar 7176 transmission fluid.

I've read in the Technical Service Bulletins that the A604 did not come with
a transmission oil pan gasket but that one was produced later on by Mopar.
Normally, the transmission oil pan was simply put on with black RTV sealant.
My Mopar dealer told me that as well.  A different trusted source said that
the Mopar brand of RTV is VERY good and he will use nothing but.

I've also had my ignition lock break.  It's a pretty easy fix.  A "security"
torx screwdriver comes in handy if one needs to remove the ignition switch
assembly though.

Please quote this message in your reply.  Otherwise I will be unable to
reply to your message.  Thanks.



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jason Wulf" <jrwulf@xxxxxxxxx>
To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Saturday, January 01, 2005 1:54 PM
Subject: Re: IML: Seeking 1993 Imperial Advice


My 1990 had the conversion done to the newer Bosch style system, and
they work /fabulously/.  If in fact it does have the old Bendix system
(which, oddly, reminds me of the Early electric powered Hydroboost GM
brakes, which had about the same reliability), I would swap it ASAP
whether you have working brakes or not.  The pump and other parts have
warranties, but to fix the whole system expect to shell out a bit of
money.  As far as stopping, I would think that if you have a decent
master cylinder, you should be able to stop even with the system dead,
but be prepared to have problems if both the ABS and BRAKE lights are
on.   If the rest of the car is just wonderful, I would consider it
worth the price of the conversion.  Here's a couple other things I'd
check for:

*  Slow shifting into gear, or hard shifting into gear -- Have someone
run the tool on your transmission, because depending on how hard it
was driven, and just how many miles you have, those were always a weak
point on the early 90's chryslers.  Look at the fluid too, if it's
pink or brown, it's dexron, which is an EXTREMELY bad thing.  If it's
blood or darker red, it's probably 7176, which is the only fluid to
put in this transmission.  If you suspect that it's anything but 7176,
have it swapped also ASAP.  The thermal characteristics of 7176 aren't
duplicated in any other fluid as far as I'm aware.

*  Oil pan leaks -- The 3.3L was worse than the 3.8 in this regard,
but if the pan gasket has never been changed, it'll probably start
leaking after 100K.  Not a big deal necessarily (other than when it
goes, it will just dump oil out like you wouldn't believe...) but
definitely a bargaining point

*  Ignition lock cylinder -- In my imperial, and according to the
service department at my local stealership, cars like ours that are
driven two miles back and forth to church every sunday by our
grandparents are subject to this failing.  Check when you run the key
if it feels like it grinds a lot.  Mine did, and I didn't think much
about it, but one morning I went to start my car, and when I turned
the key instead of my car turning on, I heard a *crack* and the plug
that moves the switch in back had broken off.  If it does this, drop
me a line, I can tell you exactly how to fix it without pulling the
wheel =).

* Busted speakers -- Take your favorite tape, or CD with you, and
check out the stereo.  Fade it to each speaker with something playing
that will test the full spectrum of each speaker, and see if any of
them are blown.  Just another bargaining point for you.

Those are the only major issues that I've ever heard about, good luck!

-Jason



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