Exactly. $4,000 is dealer pricing. Hell, for that price, you could probably take it to a street rod shop and have them completely rebuild and replace everything, with polished valve covers to boot. You might locate other people in your area driving older cars (especially Mopars) and ask for a reference to someone they trust. Where are you located? Tim ----------- From: "Hugh & Therese" <hugtrees@xxxxxxxx> Subject: Re: IML: '59 back to square one Date: Wed, 12 May 2004 00:31:08 -0500 Reply-To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Bill, You are getting soaked, no doubt. There was almost a consensus from = your first post that your actual symptoms were caused by poor fuel = delivery and possibly coolant issues. May I suggest you start with a = tune up. Your engine runs fine at idle and is neither blowing smoke nor = burning huge quantities of oil, if I recall correctly. The new brake = booster is replacing one that was full of holes and this may be = affecting the timing. See if it makes a difference. It always has = worked wonders for me. If necessary, get the carburetor rebuilt if the = car still isn't right. An engine coolant flush wouldn't hurt, either. = Where I live its advisable to get this procedure done every year. <snip> A shop explained to me that this is why the quoted price for working on = my 58 was so high. It is their 'Go away with this unprofitable, = unfamiliar, difficult to find parts for, time consuming, hunk of junk' = price. Specialist shops with real mechanics cost a fortune and there = are a lot of people out there that are willing to pay these prices on = their collector car. The best solution is to learn how to do as much as = possible yourself. It adds an amazing dimension to the hobby. It = decreases your financial outlay and increases your satisfaction. _________________________________________________________________ MSN Toolbar provides one-click access to Hotmail from any Web page – FREE download! http://toolbar.msn.com/go/onm00200413ave/direct/01/