Jay, I never got into the electronics on either of the 73's. I did replace
the distributor on the frist 73 and as I recall Autozone had them in stock
for a little of nothing (37 bucks seems to stick in my mind).
I'd bet on the float. It's an easy text and fix and I described it a week
or two back talking about the 62. Same process. Make sure you tank is
fairly empty when you take the sending unit out. A new float is 3.50 from a
ford dealer. I posted that part number a couple weeks back also and it's
also on the web site in the repair section.
Regarding the instruments, there obviously is a lack of power or ground to
the instruments. Double check the fuses and and grounds. The shop manual
wiring diagram should help identify which wire or fuse is common. If it's a
ground problem you could probably test it by making an alligator clip jumper
cable and hooking it to the metal back of the instrument cluster and the neg
post on the battery.
By the way, it's not too hard to get up under the dash. The AC duct is held
in place by ONE screw to the left of the steering column at the bottom of
the dash. Remove it and the duct will come off the left hand blow in your
face vent and then you can wiggle it around and drop it out of the main
plenum in the center of the car. I never did anything to 'your' 73 dash but
had the AC duct out and my head up under the first 73 more times than I care
to count.
Did you solve the fuel economy issue?
KerryP
Patch panels fabricated
Pinkertonk@xxxxxxxxx
dte.net/57imperial
Imperials -- 50 Limo, 57 roadster, 61's, 62, 68 Convert, 73, a 66 300 and a
bunch of lesser marques
----- Original Message -----
From: Jay King <j_king@xxxxxxxxx>
To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, April 15, 2003 2:50 PM
Subject: IML: '73 dash gauges, turn signals, radio, & clock
> Hi, List!
>
> My '73 Lebaron spent the last couple of days getting a new distributor,
after the original failed 100 miles from home Saturday afternoon. Here's the
question: after a new (junkyard) distributor, a new (junkyard) electronic
ignition module, and a new muffler after the mechanic managed to create the
biggest backfire I've ever seen while tinkering (it split the original
muffler in two!), the temperature gauge and the oil pressure gauge both peg
whenever the key is on. The gas gauge would probably peg too, but it's on
the sick list (sending unit or float, according to the "ground the sending
wire on the frame" test.) In addition, the turn signals, radio, and clock
are inop. I haven't been able to find a blown fuse. Is it possible there is
a fusible link somewhere that's gone to Nichrome Heaven? The car is running
great now, except for a little lope at idle that I blame on the Thermoquad.
I've only had the car for a couple of months and I'm not nearly as
experienced as I hope to be in peaking and tweaking.
>
> Any thoughts or recommendations would sure be appreciated!
>
> Jay King
> Meridian, Mississippi
>
> Honey Gold 1973 LeBaron 4DHT
> --
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