RE: IML: Rear drum pulling made easy

[Mark Battesby <a1web@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

well I took all of your advise guys. I went out and got the right puller . I have a very powerful compressor em-glow . Put on the impact tool . I heated of the area that I  was told to with

torch, and worked on the hub all fricken day . Didn't move one bit !!. I am convinced it isn't ever coming  off . So I will put the wheel back on and even though its a great looking  car all original 47 , I will drive it to the coast and right off cliff  where it belongs. This car has been kicking my ass for two months now and  now hate it . I cant imagine what is keeping this hub on but I have tried everything.I even tried a 10 ' long scaffolding bar with  all my weight it lifted the car in the air  and still no movement. I'm done . I am so sick of people saying to me wow I have never seen that happen before. well I have more times then I can count. who am I I am the guy that can fix everybody else stuff, but can never fix my own.Evey time I work on this car it gets worse and worse you wouldn't believe it and less you saw the list
Its not the car its me the only thing that hasn't happened is the car falling off the jack stands and crushing me below it . well I still have to put the wheels back on so i guess it could happen
Dick Benjamin <dickb@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:

> Kenyon is correct - the tapered axle design depends on the friction between
> the tapered axle end and the cone shaped inner surface of the hub to prevent
> the hub from moving on the axle end under the terrific torque of the engine
> - if you lubricate these surfaces, you will sooner or later break the tip
> off the axle, in addition to causing noise every time you reverse the
> polarity of the torque applied to the rear wheels. This will also wear out
> the woodruff key rapidly, ruining the inner
>  mating groove in the hub.
>
> The shop manual on most cars with this design makes this point very strongly
> - NEVER lubricate this surface - just assemble the parts dry and clean.
>
> Difficulty in getting the hub off is usually caused by an inadequate tool,
> or poor procedure. Using steady force on the puller center hex is the wrong
> way to go - the proper way is to apply impact force to the "dogbone" shaped
> knocker handle that comes with the tool, using a 3 pound hammer and strong
> blows. Heating the hub of the drum will also help, but usually isn't
> required. If the tool isn't up to the job, see if you can find a Snap-On
> brand puller at your local tool rental yard, - and allow the car to sit with
> the enormous pulling force on it overnight - often the temperature cycle
> will cause the hub to pop loose in the middle of the night! 
>
> Often jacking up the opposite side of the car, then, taking advantage of the
> play in the parts, pulling
>  out on the opposite wheel and then slamming it
> back into the car will transmit enough shock through the axle to cause the
> subject hub to pop loose, if it has enough force on it.
>
> Dick Benjamin
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> [mailto:mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Kenyon Wills
> Sent: Friday, December 08, 2006 5:57 PM
> To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: Re: IML: Rear drum pulling made easy
>
> I am traveling and can't research as I should.
>
> Read reassembly instructions CAREFULLY and COMPLETELY
> before applying grease anywhere in the rear spindle
> where the drum goes on. I think that there is a
> strong warning against doing this. Further details
> are yours to research. 
>
>
> -Kenyon
>
>
>
>
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