IML: Rear drum pulling easy, or just difficult?

[Kenyon Wills <imperialist1960@xxxxxxxxx>]

Hey Mark, that was a heck of a rant!  It sounds like
you were incredibly, intensely frustrated when you
wrote that.

Having had my butt kicked by more than one stubborn
car part in my life, I can understand completely how
bad that feels.  This is now a matter of patience and
persistence if you can get around how frustrated it's
made you so far.

If your car is out the door and over a cliff already,
so be it (sorry to hear that this will be the cause of
the divorce), but if the car still has a chance with
you, perhaps there's still hope that we can help you
work this out to completion?  That's what we're all
here for as far as I know.


Question:

Where do you live?  

Perhaps there's someone nearby that can spare some
time to come over and scratch their head and put some
eyes on it?  I am never surprised when someone else
looks at it a little differently than I do.  We have
the IMPERIAL HIGHWAY (located on the club website
under MAILING LIST) that shows people by geographic
region that have explicitly offered to help, although
not all are neccessarily qualified on really tough
rear axle/drum problems.  Perhaps there is a local
human resource that's been overlooked?   

Sometimes it just takes an alternate approach?

One option that I discounted because my method always
worked but would try if I got mad at the drum would be
to re-assemble, cinch the locknut down in a way that
it was threaded onto the axle and fixed in place, but
not tight.  Drive the car around at low speeds
(careful!), and see if the weight of the car,
vibration, and so forth will work on it.  Perhaps some
penetrating oil too?


Another way to go would be to look into local truck
service places.  Older trucks (I think) may have used
such drums, and you may find someone at one of those
places that has some experience or different
tools/techniques?  I encourage you to do some poking
around on this and not let this seized part get your
goat.

The thing is just stuck.  OK.  Probably been on there
since the day it was assembled or some such, and who
knows?  Perhaps water or something "wrong" got in
there, compounding your problems.  I again submit that
you are now down to a battle of the part vs. your
patience.

This IS solvable.  There are plenty of rear-ends
around for most of our cars that you can swap out if
it's just not going to work.  The challenges that
you're facing are exactly the things that all of the
gomers that don't work on cars fail to realize when
they admire a car like yours and think that an old car
is just like a new one.  

If it was easy, everyone would have an old car.

Look out the window.  Not so many chrome bumpers these
days....  You are winning your stripes this week. 
Keep going!!!!


-K







--- Mark Battesby <a1web@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

> well I took all of your advise guys. I went out and
> got the right puller . I have a very powerful
> compressor em-glow . Put on the impact tool . I
> heated of the area that I  was told to with
>   torch, and worked on the hub all fricken day .
> Didn't move one bit !!. I am convinced it isn't ever
> coming  off . So I will put the wheel back on and
> even though its a great looking  car all original 47
> , I will drive it to the coast and right off cliff 
> where it belongs. This car has been kicking my ass
> for two months now and  now hate it . I cant imagine
> what is keeping this hub on but I have tried
> everything.I even tried a 10 ' long scaffolding bar
> with  all my weight it lifted the car in the air 
> and still no movement. I'm done . I am so sick of
> people saying to me wow I have never seen that
> happen before. well I have more times then I can
> count. who am I I am the guy that can fix everybody
> else stuff, but can never fix my own.Evey time I
> work on this car it gets worse and worse you
> wouldn't believe it and less you saw the list
> Its not the car its me the only thing that hasn't
> happened is the car falling off the jack stands and
> crushing me below it . well I still have to put the
> wheels back on so i guess it could happen 
> Dick Benjamin <dickb@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>   Kenyon is correct - the tapered axle design
> depends on the friction between
> the tapered axle end and the cone shaped inner
> surface of the hub to prevent
> the hub from moving on the axle end under the
> terrific torque of the engine
> - if you lubricate these surfaces, you will sooner
> or later break the tip
> off the axle, in addition to causing noise every
> time you reverse the
> polarity of the torque applied to the rear wheels.
> This will also wear out
> the woodruff key rapidly, ruining the inner mating
> groove in the hub.
> 
> The shop manual on most cars with this design makes
> this point very strongly
> - NEVER lubricate this surface - just assemble the
> parts dry and clean.
> 
> Difficulty in getting the hub off is usually caused
> by an inadequate tool,
> or poor procedure. Using steady force on the puller
> center hex is the wrong
> way to go - the proper way is to apply impact force
> to the "dogbone" shaped
> knocker handle that comes with the tool, using a 3
> pound hammer and strong
> blows. Heating the hub of the drum will also help,
> but usually isn't
> required. If the tool isn't up to the job, see if
> you can find a Snap-On
> brand puller at your local tool rental yard, - and
> allow the car to sit with
> the enormous pulling force on it overnight - often
> the temperature cycle
> will cause the hub to pop loose in the middle of the
> night! 
> 
> Often jacking up the opposite side of the car, then,
> taking advantage of the
> play in the parts, pulling out on the opposite wheel
> and then slamming it
> back into the car will transmit enough shock through
> the axle to cause the
> subject hub to pop loose, if it has enough force on
> it.
> 
> Dick Benjamin
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> [mailto:mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On
> Behalf Of Kenyon Wills
> Sent: Friday, December 08, 2006 5:57 PM
> To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: Re: IML: Rear drum pulling made easy
> 
> I am traveling and can't research as I should.
> 
> Read reassembly instructions CAREFULLY and
> COMPLETELY
> before applying grease anywhere in the rear spindle
> where the drum goes on. I think that there is a
> strong warning against doing this. Further details
> are yours to research. 
> 
> 
> -Kenyon
> 
> 
> 
> 
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