Given the serious nature of the consequences, and the fact that when properly approached, hub removal can be done successfully without it, I would recommend not using this compound on the keys or the key ways. If such treatment was correct, it or something similar would have been recommended by the manufacturer.
I am not a scientist, but my understanding of anti-seize is that it places uniform minute particles between the metal surfaces to reduce friction and allow for easy removal of parts that are meant for long term installation and use. I have used this on spark plugs in newer cars that call for it. Oxygen sensors that thread into the exhaust pipe are another application. I suspect it is because these parts are only changed once every 50,000 to 100,000 miles, they can become very stuck in manifolds and cylinder heads, which is really NOT a good thing. Where the forces of energy are designed to increase friction for the sheer purpose of function and safety, the logic of using this disappears.
I think I have been misunderstood on the applying of Anti seize on the
keyway of the rear hub. I never said
lubrictae the rear hub with grease etc. There is a difference between grease and
Antiseize compound and I only
reccomended to apply on the
keyway not on the axle. Before I did this to my car I asked my local brake mechanic (who has been in business many years) if this was
ok to do and he told me it was fine and does it himself.
Regards
Chris
Wardle
1958 Imperial crown Coupe
----- Original Message ----- From: "Dick Benjamin" <
dickb@sdccu.net>
To: <
mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Saturday, December 09, 2006 3:12 PM
Subject: RE: IML: Rear drum pulling made easy
> Kenyon is correct - the tapered axle design depends on the friction > between
> the tapered axle end and the cone shaped inner surface of the hub to > prevent
> the hub from moving on the axle end under the terrific torque of the > engine
> - if you lubricate these surfaces, you will sooner or later break the tip
> off the axle, in addition to causing noise every time you reverse the
> polarity of the torque applied to the rear wheels. This will also wear > out
> the woodruff key rapidly, ruining the inner mating groove in the hub.
>
> The shop manual on most cars with this design makes this point very > strongly
> - NEVER lubricate this surface - just assemble the parts dry and clean.
>
> Difficulty in getting the hub off is usually caused by an inadequate tool,
> or poor procedure. Using steady force on the puller center hex is the > wrong
> way to go - the proper way is to apply impact force to the "
dogbone" > shaped
> knocker handle that comes with the tool, using a 3 pound hammer and strong
> blows. Heating the hub of the drum will also help, but usually isn't
> required. If the tool isn't up to the job, see if you can find a Snap-On
> brand puller at your local tool rental yard, - and allow the car to sit > with
> the enormous pulling force on it overnight - often the temperature cycle
> will cause the hub to pop loose in the middle of the night!
>
> Often jacking up the opposite side of the car, then, taking advantage of > the
> play in the parts, pulling out on the opposite wheel and then slamming it
> back into the car will transmit enough shock through the axle to cause the
> subject hub to pop loose, if it has enough force on it.
>
> Dick Benjamin
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> [
mailto:mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Kenyon Wills
> Sent: Friday, December 08, 2006 5:57 PM
> To:
mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: Re: IML: Rear drum pulling made easy
>
> I am traveling and can't research as I should.
>
> Read
reassembly instructions CAREFULLY and COMPLETELY
> before applying grease anywhere in the rear spindle
> where the drum goes on. I think that there is a
> strong warning against doing this. Further details
> are yours to research.
>
>
> -Kenyon
>
>
>
>
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