Re: IML: 73 Imperial valve pics

[RandalPark@xxxxxxx]

>From the pictures, these engine parts look as I would expect them to. The top of the head around the valve springs looks very clean. With respect to color and carbon, the combustion chambers appear typical to me. There are bound to be some deposits, as each on of them is basically a furnace. One valve appears to have an uneven build up (or possibly worse) on one side close to the seat area, but this could be due to the camera/photograph. 

Measurments will obviously have to be taken, an all parts inspected for defects, but from these photos it doesn't appear as though there is anything visible that should have caused the engine to misfire.

Can you provide pictures of the spark plugs that came out of this head? I can usually tell more about the condition of an engine by looking at them. Bottomline, they should all look about the same with a minor build up of ash/oil residue. Any one plug that looks different from the rest would indicate a porblem with that specific cylinder.

Paul W.

In an email dated 8/7/2005 6:04:16 am GMT Daylight time, "mike and linda sutton" <mikanlin62@xxxxxxxxxxx> writes:

>Dave
>
>Replying publicly for the benefit of anyone else who may be interested, from 
>what I can see, the valves are not recessed. ?It appears that one can still 
>see the vertical side of the valve, ( hard to describe ) ?from the area of 
>the valve face that contacts the head up to the flat part of the valve that 
>you see looking straight down on them. ?This is called the valve margin, 
>typically if the seats are recessed the margin is hidden because the valve 
>is now sitting down in the hole created by a recessed seat.
>
>As far as carbon, it could be a combination of oil getting past the valve 
>seals ( they turn rather hard and brittle with age and use ) , some getting 
>past the rings and some from a rich mixture. ?Often one will see the exhaust 
>valves are nearly white in color, from the higher temps, yours are reddish 
>brown from gas additives but some still show carbon adhering to them.
>
>If it was me, I would take the heads apart and make sure you keep the 
>orientation of the valve to its corresponding seat, and examine everything 
>after that. ?Its totally useless to do anything to them if the valve guides 
>are worn out, ?since the guide is what centers the valve on its seat. ?Also, 
>you need to know if the valve stems are worn.
>
>Also, you can clean the rocker shafts and arms ( keep in mind the difference 
>between the L and R rocker arms, its subtle but there are two different 
>rockers for each cyl ), you can use solvent or whatever you prefer to clean 
>this stuff. ?If the rocker shafts are excessively grooved where they contact 
>the rocker - more than what will catch your fingernail - consider getting 
>some different ones. ?Used are fine as long as they arent worn out. ? Also, 
>check the pushrod ends of the rockers, sometimes they will wear out in that 
>end. ?The other ends of the rockers are not as troublesome.
>
>If you have a gouged valve stem, they can be reground if its not too deep. 
>You dont want to go so far that you go beyond the hardened part of the tip.
>
>As with any engine machine process, the condition of the individual parts 
>involved will dictate what you will need to do next. ?If the guides arent 
>worn out and the guide to valve stem clearances are ok, go ahead and grind 
>the valves and seats yourself if you have the equipment.
>
>Good luck, contact me offlist if you need
>
>Mikey
>62 Crown Coupe 
>
>
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