RE: IML: Hello, and 1982 Coupe quesitons...

[Nat Hall <nathall@xxxxxxxx>]

>Hello, Nat;
>
>I'll try to help with some of your questions:

Hey Dick.. Thanks for your response.

>Second: To answer questions about your dash operation, I have to know if
>your car is still EFI.  If it is, and the MPG readout doesn't work, there
>must be a disconnected wire from the engine compartment to the dash area -
>this wire bring the signal from the fuel flow meter to the computer for the
>display of the instantaneous fuel usage.  If the car runs, we know the fuel
>flow meter is working, and that is all that is needed for the MPG readout,
>other than the odometer input, which is working, as you say. The Fuel level
>gauge is not involved in the MPG readout.  If your car is still EFI
>(congratulations), and let me know and I will tell you how to identify the
>suspect wire.
>
>If your car has been converted to carburetor operation, you are probably out
>of luck, as very few of the converted cars have functioning MPG readouts.
>Some of the members have found a solution to this, and the method is posted
>in the IML archives, but I do not know any more about that.
>

Someone pointed this out to me in a private e-mail.  My car *has* been
converted to carburetor but I had no idea it had any effect on the MPG
readout. I was actually told before buying the car it still had the
original EFI system and didn't find out until after purchasing it that it
was a conversion. No big deal, I would've bought the car anyway, but I was
a little bummed.

>Third: Your low oil pressure warning is a sign that either your engine is
>getting a bit tired, or the engine has the wrong oil in it.  If you don't
>know what oil is in it, I'd recommend changing the oil and oil filter, and
>using either 15W40 or 20W50 oil in it.  This will probably make the low oil
>pressure indication go away for a while, but sometime in the next 100,000
>miles, you may be in for an engine rebuild.   I had a similar car with
>almost 300K on it, and I had a similar symptom - so they do wear out, but it
>takes a long time.

That's what I was afraid of. I will give it an oil change and use 20W50 and
see what happens. When the day comes I need to do some serious work, what
will I be looking at? Complete bottom-up rebuild or just a few things, like
the bearings and valves?

>
>Fourth: The stereo equipment for the 82 is a quartz lock am-fm radio with a
>cassette player.  It is nearly identical as far as fit and function to that
>used in the 5th avenue for the years around that time, and will plug in
>interchangeably.  You may want to exchange the face plates, though, so they
>look authentic. I don't know what exact year range is correct, but if you
>look at your spare radio and tell us what the 2 connectors on the rear of it
>look like (color and number of terminals) and I, amongst others, can tell
>you if it appears to be the same as the 82.

I'll get back on this one.  Have to dig out the ol' radio. I want to say
there were two connector terminals and they are blue.

>
>Fifth:  Idle speed variation is a fairly common complaint with high mileage
>EFI cars, as the automatic idle speed motor system begins to "hunt" for the
>optimum idle speed over a wider and wider range as the mechanism wears.  If,
>as the car sits at idle, you hear the engine surging from too low to high an
>idle, we need to work on your AIS system.  If your car has been converted to
>carburetor, you may have to investigate further. Considering the miles on
>the car, I'd do a compression check to see what you've got to work with
>there - no sense worrying about a rough idle if the engine is worn enough to
>cause this symptom - just drive and enjoy the car.

The car is carbureted.  The idle is not really that bad. I don't think I'm
going to lose any sleep over it but it was something I noticed compared to
the 5th Ave.

>
>Sixth: My guess is that your headlight door problem is in the headlight
>switch itself.  If you trace the wires to the motor from the switch, you
>should be able to take a test light and see if the motor is getting 12 volt
>on the right leads to make it run both ways at the appropriate time.  If it
>isn't, check the same wires at the headlight switch connector - you should
>be able to track it down.  If you decide it is the headlight switch itself,
>I can give you the correct part number for it - you may find it still
>available from your friendly local Chrysler dealer.

Is it the same switch used in the ??-81 New Yorkers with headlight doors? I
was at my local salvage yard today pulling parts for the '87 NY and they
had two mostly intact '80 New Yorkers there. If it's the same switch I'll
probably nab one and try swapping it out.

>
>Seventh:   WOW - this is getting long!  I posted a procedure for repairing
>the climate control blower speed switch on the IML about 5 years ago. I
>vaguely recall I found the same switch at NAPA, but had to swap the lever
>and the chrome surround from the old switch.  You should be able to find
>this in the archives.

Thank you, I'll check it out.



-------------------
Nat Hall
1982 Imperial Coupe
-------------------




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