RE: IML: Hello, and 1982 Coupe quesitons...

["Dick Benjamin" <dickb@xxxxxxxxx>]

Hello, Nat;

I'll try to help with some of your questions:

First, use our vendors list to find folks who can help you with needed
parts.  I've used Murray Park for this, and have always been satisfied with
him, but I know there are a few other vendors on the list who can help you
also.

Second: To answer questions about your dash operation, I have to know if
your car is still EFI.  If it is, and the MPG readout doesn't work, there
must be a disconnected wire from the engine compartment to the dash area -
this wire bring the signal from the fuel flow meter to the computer for the
display of the instantaneous fuel usage.  If the car runs, we know the fuel
flow meter is working, and that is all that is needed for the MPG readout,
other than the odometer input, which is working, as you say. The Fuel level
gauge is not involved in the MPG readout.  If your car is still EFI
(congratulations), and let me know and I will tell you how to identify the
suspect wire.

If your car has been converted to carburetor operation, you are probably out
of luck, as very few of the converted cars have functioning MPG readouts.
Some of the members have found a solution to this, and the method is posted
in the IML archives, but I do not know any more about that.

Third: Your low oil pressure warning is a sign that either your engine is
getting a bit tired, or the engine has the wrong oil in it.  If you don't
know what oil is in it, I'd recommend changing the oil and oil filter, and
using either 15W40 or 20W50 oil in it.  This will probably make the low oil
pressure indication go away for a while, but sometime in the next 100,000
miles, you may be in for an engine rebuild.   I had a similar car with
almost 300K on it, and I had a similar symptom - so they do wear out, but it
takes a long time.

Fourth: The stereo equipment for the 82 is a quartz lock am-fm radio with a
cassette player.  It is nearly identical as far as fit and function to that
used in the 5th avenue for the years around that time, and will plug in
interchangeably.  You may want to exchange the face plates, though, so they
look authentic. I don't know what exact year range is correct, but if you
look at your spare radio and tell us what the 2 connectors on the rear of it
look like (color and number of terminals) and I, amongst others, can tell
you if it appears to be the same as the 82.

Fifth:  Idle speed variation is a fairly common complaint with high mileage
EFI cars, as the automatic idle speed motor system begins to "hunt" for the
optimum idle speed over a wider and wider range as the mechanism wears.  If,
as the car sits at idle, you hear the engine surging from too low to high an
idle, we need to work on your AIS system.  If your car has been converted to
carburetor, you may have to investigate further. Considering the miles on
the car, I'd do a compression check to see what you've got to work with
there - no sense worrying about a rough idle if the engine is worn enough to
cause this symptom - just drive and enjoy the car.

Sixth: My guess is that your headlight door problem is in the headlight
switch itself.  If you trace the wires to the motor from the switch, you
should be able to take a test light and see if the motor is getting 12 volt
on the right leads to make it run both ways at the appropriate time.  If it
isn't, check the same wires at the headlight switch connector - you should
be able to track it down.  If you decide it is the headlight switch itself,
I can give you the correct part number for it - you may find it still
available from your friendly local Chrysler dealer.

Seventh:   WOW - this is getting long!  I posted a procedure for repairing
the climate control blower speed switch on the IML about 5 years ago. I
vaguely recall I found the same switch at NAPA, but had to swap the lever
and the chrome surround from the old switch.  You should be able to find
this in the archives.

I'm done.

Dick Benjamin




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