IML: Pukey 440 Performance
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IML: Pukey 440 Performance
- From: "Eric" <gearhead@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Sun, 26 Jun 2005 18:06:54 -0700
Dave,
How old is the timing chain? That car would have the notorious nylon coated
cam sprocket. Does a timing light show a jumping timing mark? If so, thats
likely your trouble. My '72 440 Chrysler exhibited similar ailments: low
vacuum requiring a full to-the-floor jab to get it off of the choke's high
idle speed, rough idle, a slight surge at highway speeds, premature plug
fouling, doggy performance. A new chain w/steel cam sprockets turned it into
a silky smooth motor.When the valves aren't in time, they don't run well at
all. My slant 6 Belvedere had a similar resurrection w/a new chain. My oil
consumption even decreased.
As for the hard to reach spark plugs, I've found it helpful to remove the
bolt that holds the bottom left motor mount and the lift the motor w/a floor
jack a couple of inches to reach #7 plug, but I think the Imperials have
more room with the longer wheelbase in that same vicinity of the vehicle so
this may not be applicable.
I took off one head of my '63 Crown last year. The only real trouble were
the 2 bolts that secure the exhaust manifold to the downpipe. They would not
budge, even after torching. I ended up levering the manifold off the studs
in the head and popped the head off the block. Rebuilding consisted of new
valve seals and two valves that weren't quite as good as the others, and a
hot tanking and some cleaning of the ports w/a wire brush on my drill. Very
inexpensive, DIY in a driveway simple, and a lot less weight than an old
straight 6 head.
The timing chain was about as much work, a harmonic balancer puller is
needed and some minor crafting of the oil pan to front cover gasket is
required. I'm now of the mind that it should be the 1st thing to replace on
any old Chrysler w/a lumpy idle without any other malfunctioning indicators,
aside from a jumping timing mark. The phenolic spacer under the carb also
can produce a severe vacuum leak, I didn't notice it until I had it off the
car but there on the unsee-able back side of it were any number of cracks
causing a whopping vac leak. Your symptoms don't totally coincide w/a vac
leak tho. The varying compression test would indicate an inappropriately
variable valve timing. I'd check the timing mark with a timing light first
to see if it holds steady or if a loose chain causes the mark to jump
around. It's likely a simple fault and would be a shame not to take a
week(end) and fix it and enjoy that big, beautiful facelift-fuselage
Imperial.
Eric
Portland, Oregon
___________________________________________________________________
Date: Sun, 26 Jun 2005 13:44:04 -0700 (PDT)
From: David Duricy <desotobravo@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: IML: 1973 Imperial Valve Job Questions
Reply-To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
My 1973 Imperial with 151,000 miles has been running
poorly. Symptoms have included lack of power, rough
idle, excessively noisy and hot exhaust, and low
engine vacuum (10 to 12 inches of vacuum on the worst
of days).
Compression tests show 120psi for cylinder 1, 90psi
for cylinder 3, and inconsistent readings for cylinder
5 - which jumps anywhere from 60psi to 80psi. With
these readings, I didn't bother to test the remaining
cylinders given how difficult it is to access the
plugs on this car.
I believe that the symptoms and the tests show that
the Imperial has either sticky or burned valves. I am
unsure what to do next.
Would it be more economical to have a machine shop
rebuild the cylinder head, buy a replacement head, or
attempt the work myself? I have done a valve job on my
1950 DeSoto, but I suspect the Imperial 440 demands
more skill and pricier parts than the DeSoto Six.
I'm wondering, too, if I should just sell the car.
That, however, is a very sad thought.
Your advice would be greatly appreciated.
Dave Duricy
1973 Imperial LeBaron (The Ailing Monarch)
1968 Imperial Crown convertible (The Usurper)
1950 DeSoto Custom (The Witness)
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