I am not saying it WILL fail if you use D5 but the fact that about 1 in 10 cars we converted did have problems related to D5 and All Auto Manufactures & many after market suppliers, will not warrantee any cars or parts that were converted to D5 speaks loudly to me. D4 has proven to be rust & trouble free and will work just fine in any stopping situation all of our cars will ever encounter if changed as recomended. Again if it ain't broke don't fix it! The D5 cult following began with people in the military figuring if it's good enough for Uncle Sam I'm going to give it a try in my car thus the hyperbole began. Dot 5 was developed for the military back when D3 technology was all that was available, because of all the adverse environments it's vehicles can encounter. A vehicle may be deep in a jungle today & depending on the currant political environment, in a desert or any other adversely different environment tomorrow. D5 had proven to be more stable for them than D3, now how many personal vehicles encounter these changes in it's lifetime let alone in a few days? Last I talked to anyone even the military is taking a second look at D5's benifits anymore. A note, the military systems were designed for D5 not converted from D3! Another plus for D5 was, it's ability to withstand fading under extreme braking conditions in race cars over the D3 of the day. With new D4 formulations, not so true anymore! Harley Davidson, everyone likes to point out they use D5 in their systems from NEW! Like the military their systems were built to use D5 & D5 only! The biggest issue they run into is contamination from people using D3 or D4 to top off a master even after it is marked D5 only, now you have a bucket of contaminated worms! The only way to effectively get all of the old D3/4 out of your system is power bleed D5 through your system and monitor for residual D3/4 bubbles balled up in the fluid till it runs contamination free, again $$ down the drain or guaranteed gunk from contamination! Everyone uses a cadre of fluids/chemicals to clean a system out and all have an adverse affect on the rubber parts in your system! Why kick that dog? Bottom Line, personally when it comes to stopping my vehicles when I hit the pedal, I am hesitant to play the odds! Probably why I never go to the Casino's ether, & believe me we have them all over the area!! Dot 4 for me! Also I would rather spend my hard earned $$.¢¢ on things you & I can see.
-------Original Message-------
Date: 7/11/2014 12:40:47 AM
Subject: Re: How to: 65 C-body disc brake conversion (1st installment) LONG READ!
I can only speak from my experienc with Dot 5 brake fluid. I have used it in my car since building it in 2006 and have put several miles on the car. For whatever reason, it does take out in-line brake light switches. I changed mine to a mechanical switch. My brake cylinder rubber parts are still like new. No rust at all, or water, when I crack open the bleeder valve to inspect for contamination. My Master cylinder , cap, and firewall area doesn't have a bit of rust on them and are dry. And I don't worry about dripping some on my paint when I take the MC cap off. I have used it on Harley Davidson disc brakes since 1974 with no problem . H.D. recommends use of Dot 5. I am useing it on my 64 Dodge build . If it costs a little more, you may have to buyjust one less six pack.!......................................MO
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Wednesday, July 09, 2014 9:04 AM
Subject: RE: How to: 65 C-body disc brake conversion (1st installment) LONG READ!
Maybe they know a little something about what ill affects Dot 5 has on your system? Dot 5 jacks system rubber parts up by saturating them with silicone, a lot of times causing hard pedals, early failure and so on! It is also hell on hydraulic brake light switches! Switch to dot 5 you cant go back unless you replace ALL rubber in the system including hoses to keep it from slugging up or just selfdistructing. Dot 3/4 absorbs moisture/condensation/dirt and holds it in suspension till it is saturated, and at that point it starts rusting. dot 5 wont absorb moisture, and lets condensation/dirt sink to low spots in your system causing rust issues quicker. Your supposed to change your brake fluid about every 25K, not wait till it is saturated with moisture and starts to rust from the inside out. Unless your taking your car from one weather/environmental extreme to another like say the military, or a high speed race car with extreme braking, dot 5 is of no practical benefit other than being able to be one of the sheople that gets a worm fuzzy feeling spending a lot of extra money on snake oil. Yes I know the hype, D5 wont damage my paint, I just don't pour D3 or D4 on my paint! Problem solved!! I doubt many if any people on this site drive their cars in, or, to the extreme that D5 is designed to be used for!
Also, if you do use D5 in your system your supposed to mark your master as such because it is NOT compatible with D3 or D4, a step no one does that I have seen.
I am sure I just kicked the old Dot bees nest, but I have had many years of experience converting systems over and back because of the problems. O, BTW MPB is not the lone ranger with that policy! I ONLY use Dot 4 in all of my cars and I change it about every 25K or 5 years along with my coolant, tranny & dif fluids. No one changes these till they have problems, then it's too late. In addition, funding had nothing to do with me not using Dot5 because I could get all I wanted for free. I just did not want all the probable issues on my cars. If it ain't broke don't fix it!!
-------Original Message-------
Date: 7/9/2014 6:35:33 AM
Subject: RE: How to: 65 C-body disc brake conversion (1st installment) LONG READ!
Hey Lyle, why would MPB forbid DOT 5 fluid? Seems kinda weird.
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Please address private email -- email of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, email your parts/car transactions and negotiations, as well as other personal messages, only to the intended recipient. Do not just press "reply" and send your email to everyone using the general '62-'65 Clubhouse public email address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine-tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
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