Re: Voltage regulator

["Dennis C." <dennis.2914@xxxxxxxxx>]

I agree with DJ, both parts of the bulkhead connector must be new or
all new internals. Even if the bulkhead connectors are new the
connectors and wire will not be able to carry the output of a larger
alternator if you have accessories that actually need and use the
output of the larger alternator.

If you put some thought into it there are many solutions that do not
involve damaging the new wiring in the car or drilling out the
bulkhead connector for larger wire.  Start with a wiring diagram, add
the additional loads and as mentioned consider relays and an
additional fuse block or in-line fuses.  You can run an additional
fused large power feed to under the dash through an existing grommet
if you need to.

Here is another nice and simple alteration you can make to your wiring
that reduces the current through the bulkhead connector and gives you
better lighting:

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=107588

Take Care
Dennis C.

On Mar 28, 3:23 am, D J <djohn14...@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> Jacob,
> I'm not questioning the guy you bought the car from, but to be on the safe side, have you actually looked at and validate that there is a new bulk head electrical box installed? It my understanding that new ones are extremely hard to come by, but old ones can be rebuilt? again jm2cw.
>
> DJ
>
> ________________________________
> From: Jacob Fox <imfast...@xxxxxxxxx>
> To: "1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx" <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2012 11:42 PM
> Subject: Re: Voltage regulator
>
> With everything being new, and it not bein driven in weather, I might just consider unbolting the ammeter. I know the bulkhead will still be a potential problem. But being that it's new instead of 40 years old, I think my odds are in my favor. Now, do I still need voltage regulator if I run to starter relay with fusible link? Or can I just unbolt gauge, and just upgrade my regulator? The latter seems easier. I'll take pics tomm of what I have and y'all can see what's there and how it all is. I just want my radio to work right!! Haha without burning the car down of course. The way it acts still confuses me though while it's running. While on 880, on or off, it shows the middle. And I know there's power goin to one in 880, I touched them to ground before, got a nice little show lol :)
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Mar 27, 2012, at 10:30 PM, "Dennis C." <dennis.2...@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>
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> > I agree, running a bypass from the alternator to the starter relay
> > with a fuse or fusible link will reduce the possibility of damage but
> > not totally eliminate it.
>
> > Check this site:
>
> >http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml
>
> > Also just do some Google searches on Mopar Ammeter problems.
>
> > I ran the bypass with the fusible link but I also bolted the wires
> > together behind the ammeter AND most important I am running a STOCK
> > alternator.  I am still running the risk of a problem in the bulkhead
> > connector.
>
> > Get a wiring diagram if you don't have one, use highlighters and mark
> > the circuits and decide what you want to do.  Your father may not like
> > auto electrics but if you have all of the information at hand maybe he
> > will help you decide what you want to do.
>
> >http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=24
>
> > Good Luck, let us know what you decide to do.
>
> > Dennis C.
> > On Mar 27, 8:14 pm, Jacob Fox <imfast...@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> >> Ahh seems I can bypass using wire straight from alt to starter relay with fusible link. Still have gauge hooked up but it'll only have half the current going thru it. Saves that new harness from having to be cut up. I'd hate to mess up such a great looking job :)
>
> >> Sent from my iPhone
>
> >> On Mar 27, 2012, at 9:52 PM, Eric Sturgis <ericstur...@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>
> >>> The statement listed below is my opinions, yours may differ. I do not wish you argue about it, take it as it is or leave it. It's not my car you are working on, do things however you choose. I believe the statements and ideas below to be accurate, and could save your classic car or your life, use at your own risk, research and read others ideas, learn the load capacity of the wiring in your car before you take my word for it. Other people may have a different or better way to resolve the same issues. Viewer discretion is advised...
>
> >>> You know if you have a working old style Amp Gauge in that car, and you run that much Amperage through it, it will melt, or have a wiring fire. The gauge would be rated at either 45amps or 60amps. To run those electronics you will have to upgrade the wiring and bypass the gauge, and I'd run all new wires for the Positive AND Negative for the subs AND radio. Do not tap into the fuse box your car has or into the wiring your car has. Use new wiring and circuits from the battery. Too much load on wires (new or not) will cause them to heat up, melt and short out. I know most of the time people just ground the sub in the back, you can do that on a new car, and the Ground is usually good. But a 45 year old car may not have as good a ground so why take the chance of ruining the amp or sub due to poor ground wires, just run ground with with the hot so it has both wires new. Both wires the same gauge, direct from the battery. Remember to put the FUSE for the
>
>  HOT side of the sub very close to the battery in case it shorts out at some time, it will just blow the fuse. Do the same thing for the radio as well, If you want it to turn on and off with the key use a relay to run the radio. It would work just like any other relay for lights, or a fuel pump. It will just run the radio, DVD player, navigation, or heated seat.....whatever, add as many as you like.
>
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> >>> Or you can do what I'm doing for my car. I'm bypassing my amp gauge and upgrading the charging system and adding fuseable links. I'm then adding an under the hood fuse box (like new cars use) to run all my new toys.  Oh and I think it's a 120 amp Alt that is going in.  I'd have to go look at it, it's at the bottom of the pile, but could be a 160 AMP
> >>> --
> >>> Eric
> >>> Tacoma, WA
> >>> 1962 Chrysler Newport 2 door HT
>
> >>> --
> >>> --
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>
> >>> 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
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> > Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!
>
> > 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> >http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.htmlandhttp://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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> --
> --
> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!
>
> 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.htmlandhttp://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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-- 
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Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group.
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