${top_text_ad} Jim, thanks for the advise. I did recirculate the fluid into the master to eliminate air, then bled the rear wheels (with new cylinder and axle lines), then the fronts, then the tee fitting on the frame rail. Everything looks good. On the advise of others and my own suspicions, I pulled the front drums to check the shoes and everything is in good working order. I put it back together and adjusted each shoe according to the manual. The pedal feel is much better and no longer on the floor. I haven't taken it on the road yet since I'm still waiting on the insurance, but it feels good in the parking lot. I also ended up buying the Runway Enduro tires that I spoke about in previous emails. STS had them in stock at a cheaper price that I could get them online so I had to pick them up. They're one size shorter than I wanted but at $68 a piece and a wider whitewall it just made sense. Now that the brakes are sorted, I have to mount all 4 tires, but the rims are rusty so I should paint them while the tires are off ect ect; just another project. Just have to decide whether to paint them black again, or red........... - Dave On Sat, Aug 14, 2010 at 11:20 AM, Jim Rowland <dodge440@xxxxxxx> wrote: > > Dave: > > I am working on the brakes on my 65 Dodge Coronet. I had the same problem > with my car earlier. I put a new master cylinder in and bleed it with the > pedal. Took the car to a mech. for front end alignment and him also > re-bleed the brakes as the pedal was soft, to the floor, on the first push > or so. He bleed them but the pedal was still soft. He said I had a bad > master cylinder due to a bad diaphragm between the two reservoirs. > > I called SSBC and got a new master cylinder. They also told me I had to > bleed the master cylinder on a vise as the break pedal rod does not go far > enough in to totally bleed the cylinder. They sent me bleeding kit, NC. I > bleed it on the vise using a big philips screw driver. Installed the master > cylinder, a lot of fun when you are by yourself in the pit. Bleed the brakes > and everything was rock hard. > > Then I re-did some the brake tubes to eliminate the line lock and move the > brake adjusting valve to the rear brakes, received bad info thats another > story. Then when re-bleeding the rear brakes the bleed nut on the drivers > side would not close easily and I ended up sucking all the fluid out of the > master cylinder, again by my self. I refilled the reservoir and bleed the > rear breaks. > > Wham pedal to the medal in a flash. Bottom line is i am trying to re bleed > the Master cylinder from inside the car by disconnecting the brake pedal and > using a long rod to get the plunger to go all the way in. First i am going > to rebuild the back brakes. > > Sorry for being so wordy but its early am here in SC. > > Bottom line did you bleed your master cylinder after refilled it with fluid? > > I will let you know how my latest endeavor goes if it ever cools off down > here! > > Jim > > 1965 Dodge Coronet 500, 440 CI ${bottom_text_ad} ---- Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks! 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines: http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html. This email was sent to: ${recipient} u/?bUrDWg.${encoded_sub_id}.${EMC}