So update on the hard start, so I got an original owners manual for my car. It said when starting hold pedal down 1/3 to 1/2 when starting whether hot or cold. It sets the automatic choke and when it's hot the choke won't activate. I tried it and eureka! No problems at all. When starting I always used to pump the pedal once or twice before starting when cold and it said do not do that, but do it once after car is has been started cold to reset choke. I'm sure y'all all knew that but I'm sure didn't since I'm new to mopars.....FYI getting seats back Monday...I'll post pics of what it looks like!
Sent from my iPhone
Then the choke and fast-idle cam that works with
the electric choke are probably where the problem lies.
Chick
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Sunday, June 26, 2011 8:54 PM
Subject: Re: hot starting &
fuel?
okay how do you make subfolders etc? im new to gmail.
i
think we are talking about two different things...the cam hes talking about is
actually on the carb, not the fuel pump. ima check out the choke thing first
and see if that fixes it before i make a shield for the fuel pump.
On Sun, Jun 26, 2011 at 7:25 PM, Stephen Andrachek
<s.andrachek@xxxxxxxxxxx>
wrote:
What pic in what service manual? That's a
clue for us to exploit.
First, it could be a cable or part of a set up
to make your inside air hot in the winter or cool in the summer.
Then it would be part of it on the outside and the inside of the dash.
This will probably already be answered by the time you get it. Then
just see the black and bold line at the bottom and if you know what to do
just delete this and all other emails if you found your answer just make
some sub-folders in email with a main folder, 1962 to 1965 Q and A. and
subfolders under that for reference. Or one of many other ways.
Access Gary's web site via your cell phone. I'm lucky enough to get by
but many others struggle. Jacob seems like he could hook something
like that up forhimself if he wants but to me it is like reinventing the
wheel since its already been done. I probably beating a dead horse
below. But anyone alrealy knowinging it doesn't have to read it and
should always check out Gary's site before doing anything
anyway.
Lot's of stuff can run off one kind of cam or
another. The fuel pump runs off a cam. There is one bolt there
that you need a special wrench to get to or have a new fuel pump put on by
someone with that special wrench (usually homemade) so all bolts are tight
on the fuel pump. It can be disabled with plate held on by two little
bolts. If not, the mechanical pump goes on right there. That
pump contains I think three and maybe four bolts holding it in. Even
if the person who got it out couldn't get it back in, he could have just
left it out, causing the other bolts to loosen and cause problems.
With an electric fuel pump and a pressure regulator, you don't need no
steenin' fuel pump and you can take it out and plug up the hole(s). I
think the plate covers it all.
Coming out of the side of the block is a rod
made out of metal about 3/8"or so thidk with a spring behind it.
This may be close to the fuel pump or part of the reassembly when you put a
new one on. Here's where you can put in a heavier spring in for
more oil pressure on a 413 and up Mopar block. Some used to put
a flat washer behind the cap-screw on that held it together and make the
spring stronger that way.
Gary's site has a lot more stuff on it,
but you are narrowing down the problem and it could still be lots of
things. On top of the other things
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Sunday, June 26, 2011 5:28
PM
Subject: Re: hot starting &
fuel?
is there anyway to disable the cam till i get a chance to
get something else? i noticed it was stuck the other day after comparing
my carb to a pic in the service manual. i noticed something was different
so i fiddled with it and click it went where it should. its so hot down
here all the time i dont really need it right now, maybe when it gets cold
in december-january.
On Sun, Jun 26, 2011 at 4:23 PM, Stephen Andrachek
<s.andrachek@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Get a carb like it rebuilt by someone who
knows what they are doing or get a new carb that hooks up to your
linkage ok. That sounds like a good place to start. The
"fast idle" cam seems to be stuck. This cam keeps the engine at
fast idle until it warms up enough. Blocked heat risers may cause
this, but I would guess only in colder weather and only until the engine
warmed up.
Remember the old gas and the fuel tank and
fuel filters too.
Chick
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Sunday, June 26, 2011 5:19
PM
Subject: Re: hot starting &
fuel?
i just checked out those links...ill def be making one of those!
one thing i noticed though starting my car yesterday. i noticed that
my carb has no electric choke. when i crank it no matter hot or cold i
believe the choke is activating. I noticed by the high idle and when i
give it rpm a little while after starting it goes back down. any ideas
to check and see if thats my problem? i never messed with any carb
other than a electric eldelbrock 4barrel, so this old 2barrel is new
to me. Thanks!
--
--
--
--
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only
one person -- directly to that person. That is, send parts/car transactions
and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended
recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect
your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal
to Mopar topic. Thanks!
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion
Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html
and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
"The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group.
http://groups.google.com/group/1962to1965mopars?hl=en.
--
--
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group.
http://groups.google.com/group/1962to1965mopars?hl=en.
--
--
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group.
http://groups.google.com/group/1962to1965mopars?hl=en.
|
Back to the Home of the Forward Look Network