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My car was a bitch to start. Dual quad
cross-ram and it had chokes just hanging on it. It always popped through
the carbs when cold. We hand-choked it and it did better so on went
electric chokes.
Now the car starts very easily, hot or cold, just
by pushing on the gas pedal hard enough to feel it move. Then crank the
engine. It will start when gas gets flowing through the carbs. Don't
pump the pedal.
I know most new cars you pump the pedal once and
let it all the way up and then start it up. Those computer-controlled cars
are hard to beat, but all the old timers who had cars probably remember
something they had to look out for and bring extra of...brake fluid,
screwdrivers, pliers, etc. Guys just like to fool with mechanical things
like cars. Its a good hobby. Nothing like putting the pedal down and
feeling the car pull hard.
Chick
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Sunday, July 31, 2011 1:22 PM
Subject: Re: hot starting &
fuel?
So update on the hard start, so I got an original owners manual for my
car. It said when starting hold pedal down 1/3 to 1/2 when starting whether
hot or cold. It sets the automatic choke and when it's hot the choke won't
activate. I tried it and eureka! No problems at all. When starting I always
used to pump the pedal once or twice before starting when cold and it said do
not do that, but do it once after car is has been started cold to reset choke.
I'm sure y'all all knew that but I'm sure didn't since I'm new to
mopars.....FYI getting seats back Monday...I'll post pics of what it looks
like!
Sent from my iPhone
Then the choke and fast-idle cam that works
with the electric choke are probably where the problem lies.
Chick
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Sunday, June 26, 2011 8:54
PM
Subject: Re: hot starting &
fuel?
okay how do you make subfolders etc? im new to gmail.
i think we are talking about two different things...the cam hes
talking about is actually on the carb, not the fuel pump. ima check out
the choke thing first and see if that fixes it before i make a shield for
the fuel pump.
On Sun, Jun 26, 2011 at 7:25 PM, Stephen Andrachek
<s.andrachek@xxxxxxxxxxx>
wrote:
What pic in what service manual?
That's a clue for us to exploit.
First, it could be a cable or part of a set
up to make your inside air hot in the winter or cool in the
summer. Then it would be part of it on the outside and the inside
of the dash. This will probably already be answered by the time
you get it. Then just see the black and bold line at the bottom
and if you know what to do just delete this and all other emails if you
found your answer just make some sub-folders in email with a main
folder, 1962 to 1965 Q and A. and subfolders under that for
reference. Or one of many other ways. Access Gary's web site
via your cell phone. I'm lucky enough to get by but many others
struggle. Jacob seems like he could hook something like that up
forhimself if he wants but to me it is like reinventing the wheel since
its already been done. I probably beating a dead horse
below. But anyone alrealy knowinging it doesn't have to read it
and should always check out Gary's site before doing anything
anyway.
Lot's of stuff can run off one kind of cam
or another. The fuel pump runs off a cam. There is one bolt
there that you need a special wrench to get to or have a new fuel pump
put on by someone with that special wrench (usually homemade) so all
bolts are tight on the fuel pump. It can be disabled with plate
held on by two little bolts. If not, the mechanical pump goes on
right there. That pump contains I think three and maybe four bolts
holding it in. Even if the person who got it out couldn't get it
back in, he could have just left it out, causing the other bolts to
loosen and cause problems. With an electric fuel pump and a
pressure regulator, you don't need no steenin' fuel pump and you can
take it out and plug up the hole(s). I think the plate covers it
all.
Coming out of the side of the block is a
rod made out of metal about 3/8"or so thidk with a spring behind
it. This may be close to the fuel pump or part of the reassembly
when you put a new one on. Here's where you can put in a heavier
spring in for more oil pressure on a 413 and up Mopar block.
Some used to put a flat washer behind the cap-screw on that held it
together and make the spring stronger that way.
Gary's site has a lot more stuff on
it, but you are narrowing down the problem and it could still be
lots of things. On top of the other things
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Sunday, June 26, 2011 5:28
PM
Subject: Re: hot starting &
fuel?
is there anyway to disable the cam till i get a chance
to get something else? i noticed it was stuck the other day after
comparing my carb to a pic in the service manual. i noticed something
was different so i fiddled with it and click it went where it should.
its so hot down here all the time i dont really need it right now,
maybe when it gets cold in december-january.
On Sun, Jun 26, 2011 at 4:23 PM, Stephen
Andrachek <s.andrachek@xxxxxxxxxxx>
wrote:
Get a carb like it rebuilt by someone
who knows what they are doing or get a new carb that hooks up to
your linkage ok. That sounds like a good place to start.
The "fast idle" cam seems to be stuck. This cam keeps the
engine at fast idle until it warms up enough. Blocked heat
risers may cause this, but I would guess only in colder weather and
only until the engine warmed up.
Remember the old gas and the fuel tank
and fuel filters too.
Chick
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Sunday, June 26, 2011
5:19 PM
Subject: Re: hot starting
& fuel?
i just checked out those links...ill def be making one of
those! one thing i noticed though starting my car yesterday. i
noticed that my carb has no electric choke. when i crank it no
matter hot or cold i believe the choke is activating. I noticed by
the high idle and when i give it rpm a little while after starting
it goes back down. any ideas to check and see if thats my problem?
i never messed with any carb other than a electric eldelbrock
4barrel, so this old 2barrel is new to me. Thanks!
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Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only
one person -- directly to that person. That is, send parts/car transactions
and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended
recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect
your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal
to Mopar topic. Thanks!
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion
Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html
and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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"The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group.
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Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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