James,
Copper sheets from Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=005+copper+sheet&crid=K7U5NHY0LRTK&sprefix=.005%22+copper%2Caps%2C170&ref=nb_sb_ss_ts-doa-p_1_10
From: 'James Douglas' via Chrysler 300 Club International <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, January 8, 2023 8:08 PM
To: John Grady <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>; chrysler 300 club <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: {Chrysler 300} Re: Actually Pulling the Steering Chuck…
Hi John,
Thanks for the thought. I gave that idea some thought as well. I am sending the box I pulled for a remanufacture and will be doing this again in a couple of months when it shows back up.
I may well look into that concept. I was thinking of tack welding a nut onto both collar and the column shaft and using a wire to make the jump with two little screws with Loctite to hold it down. Same basic idea.
I will mull those ideas over.
What stuck me was how far from “Industrial America” we really have come when one cannot find copper sheet stock at two hardware stores, two box stores and three auto parts stores. We really do live in a new age in America. Good or bad.
James
We had another way to ground that much better without the strap , which often goes intermittent . = very Poor design at best .
I think I drilled and tapped like 6/32 for a real hi flex silicone jumper wire soldered into eyelets around the rubber .
May be on 300 tech info somewhere ??
John
Yesterday I put in the temporary unit, and I was able to get it in without having to take the spool valve off the chuck. I did however find that to get it to rotate into the big hole in the firewall and clear the control arm that I needed to get the starter cables out of the way.
It may be that the cables were changed at some point and the length is a little shorter. In any case the reason I could not get it out as the rotation angle could not be achieved with the cable connected. A FYI to anyone pulling the chuck on a '64 is to take the starter cables off the starter it will make your life easier.
Of course, now I am at a dead stop as the copper grounding strap is shot. I drove around yesterday to three auto parts stores, two hardware stores, Lowes and Home Depot. None of them had an .005 copper sheet (shim stock).
So, I will have to head back to SF without the job done. Order some copper stock from McMaster-Carr and come back in a week and finish the job.
On the subject of the ground strap. I seem to remember the last time I did this that I did NOT slice the replacement rubber at the top as that is the spot where the rubber fails. I think I ran the strap out the upper and and around and it worked fine.
Bob, or anyone else, can you think of any reason that this is a bad idea? I would prefer not to slit the top of the rubber isolator which leaves that one side with very little meat where it connects at the base. The old one failed at that point.
--
For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylang
---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Chrysler 300 Club International" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to chrysler-300-club-international+unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx.
To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/chrysler-300-club-international/CY5PR19MB617176B26304E33DC03FF08A93F99%40CY5PR19MB6171.namprd19.prod.outlook.com.
--
For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylang
---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Chrysler 300 Club International" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to chrysler-300-club-international+unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx.
To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/chrysler-300-club-international/CY5PR19MB61712094FD9F4DA9475C6BEA93FE9%40CY5PR19MB6171.namprd19.prod.outlook.com.
