Re: {Chrysler 300} c300 electrical issues

I cut one open , ground end contact inside is by pressing aluminum foil against aluminum case by the rubber cone . This all turns to aluminum oxide (an insulator) . I could see arc marks where it was opening and closing through oxide with current . Jack’s description is absolutely typical .

The real mopar ones and some blue streak / standard high line have the copper strap , beautiful . Hermetic sealed . Find an old one ( or new one like this , nos or used )

In all my years of messing with cars I have never found a “ bad one” of those . People change a really good one with strap to junk for no reason at all .” points and condenser “ at parts counter = a big error unless you know it is bad ( a short circuit ) re old ones.

You can check it ( old one) with analog meter on high ohms scale , it should jump up and then go back to million ohms or more . Impossible to check for intermittent in new one although sometimes may read open ( no jump up ) .

Forget trying to read digital meters , get a real meter .

This issue caused me untold aggravation for years on several cars , same aggravating issue on Kohler emergency generator not starting in emergency. That was where I first saw this , light went on re 300’s .

Kohler came with the rubber cone from new . Pure junk design .

Sadly putting another “new “ rubber cone style in will fix it .. for a year . Repeat (!!! )
john g

Sent from my iPhone not by choice

On 7 Oct 2021, at 6:16 pm, <jackcboyle@xxxxxxxxx> <jackcboyle@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Hi everyone,

Just when I thought I was done with the restoration in time drive it before the snow flies ---

It ran great on 3 short drives, then it started running progressively worse until it quit altogether. There was probably less than 1 hour total run time on the restoration.

The whole time it was running around the neighborhood I noticed that the ammeter was pegged on the high side. I could turn on all the accessories and get it down about half charge. We rolled up our sleeves. BTW, the car was converted to 1956 = 12 v components in the late 60’s

We eliminated fuel as the problem but we did find some ignition gremlins. Coil was switched, no change, ballast resistor and other components switched out and it still would not start or run. Then we put in a complete junk yard distributor in and it started right up, idled and ran great. Today I changed the condenser in the rebuilt 1^st distributor and put it back in. It still starts, idles and runs great.

The very high rate of charge is still there – is this a problem? Could it have contributed to the condenser failure? Is there anything else I need to investigate?

Thanks as always

…Jack

Jack C. Boyle

Enjoying the same C300 since 1967

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