RE: {Chrysler 300} c300 electrical issues

[dplotkin <dplotkin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Jack-

The charging system is easy to diagnose.  The shop manual will direct you to the procedure for full fielding the generator or alternator which will determine if they are working. That you have a 13 V output would indicate a working generator.  

What you see when measuring voltage across the battery with engine running at a fast idle is determined by battery condition, state of charge, ambient temperature and load. Generally between 13.8 and 14.2 volts. 15 volts is an overcharge. 13 volts is not enough. 

A pegged ammeter is a worry. If you have a generator rather than an alternator than you have a 3 element regulator consisting of cutout, voltage regulator and current regulator.  Among the failure modes of such a regulator is a stuck cutout, which will send battery voltage to the generator when the engine is still and cause a fire. 

Disconnect the battery when you park until you straighten this out. The charging system is easy to diagnose. 

Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone

-------- Original message --------

From: jackcboyle@xxxxxxxxx

Date: 10/7/21 6:16 PM (GMT-05:00)

To: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

Subject: {Chrysler 300} c300 electrical issues

Hi everyone,

 

Just when I thought I was done with the restoration in time drive it before the snow flies ---

 

It ran great on 3 short drives, then it started running progressively worse until it quit altogether. There was probably less than 1 hour total run time on the restoration.

 

The whole time it was running around the neighborhood I noticed that the ammeter was pegged on the high side. I could turn on all the accessories and get it down about half charge. We rolled up our sleeves. BTW, the car was converted to 1956 = 12 v components in the late 60’s

 

We eliminated fuel as the problem but we did find some ignition gremlins. Coil was switched, no change, ballast resistor and other components switched out and it still would not start or run. Then we put in a complete junk yard distributor in and it started right up, idled and ran great. Today I changed the condenser in the rebuilt 1^st distributor and put it back in. It still starts, idles and runs great.

 

The very high rate of charge is still there – is this a problem? Could it have contributed to the condenser failure? Is there anything else I need to investigate?

 

Thanks as always

 

…Jack

 

 

Jack C. Boyle

Enjoying the same C300 since 1967

 

 

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