Re: [Chrysler300] '61 G driver power window motor. Any out there!?

["Don Verity" <d.verity@xxxxxxx>]

Hi Ray,
  It is much easier and safer to remove the regulator and motor unit on those so equipped before trying to remove the motor. I clamp the regulator in  a vise by the frame, and use a C-clamp to secure the arm so it can't move. If you are prepared, and the frame is clamped in the vise hard enough, you can release the C-clamp while holding the regulator arm to release the spring pressure. I do this on all the windows I service. The main cause of slow windows is old grease gumming things up. Nothing short of taking them apart and cleaning all the old grease off will make them free again.  All that said,, it's still not a job for the average mechanic. You need to be paying total attention to what you are doing, and have a fair amount of mechanical aptitude.
300ly,
    Don

  I have to assume you're right. It's been way too many years since i worked on My "L"'s windows, so the mind is fuzzy. I may be mixing up the Hurst with it, not to mention ALL the new cars I worked on before retirement! I know it usually comes as a surprise when they don't use body ground to work.

  The '65 L is like your Imperial, in that the motor/drive comes off the regulator. It's nearly impossible to remove the motor with the regulator in the car as I remember. There are usually some holes in the regulator, stick a bolt thru the one nearest the spring loaded arm in the direction of travel. The spring may overcome the clamping of the vise and it's pretty violent when it unloads!

  By the way, a little trick I learned long ago, If the window won't work, whack the door panel while holding the button up/down. the shock often gets it working. Makes the contact in the motor, once started, it will usually keep on working for a while. Until you let it set too long again

  Regards, Ray




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