RE: {Chrysler 300} 300k starting issue

Mike,

I spent a good deal if time on the power distribution on my 300K. Since this car is to be used as my primary driver, not a point show car, I mad several changes to the electrical system. All of which can be changed back with an afternoon’s work if someone ever wanted to. If you look in the archives from about 20 months ago you can see my posts.

In short this is what I did:

Changed the alternator for Powermaster 90 AMP unit.
Changed the voltage regulator to a Tranpro adjustable digital voltage regulator.
I used a #6 or #4 battery cable from the alternator to the starting relay through a high capacity fuse. Same for a alternator ground.
I used a relay and did some wiring changes. In particular, I ran some #10 wires parallel to the two power wires that go through the bulkhead connector as the factory did on police cars. I also fused both of the factory wires and the two parallel wires.
I purchased one of the new manufacture bulkhead connectors and carefully removed (had to buy the tool) all the wires from the factory bulkhead connector and used my Dremel to wire wheel all of them clean and then I used contact cleaner on them and then anti-corrosion spray and then greased them. I put them into the new bulkhead connector that comes with a new seal.

That is the basics. Once could just do part of all the above. I use a cigar lighter push in voltage regulator as the above changes route most of the AMPS around the amp gauge. I get 13.7 volts at the dash with the regulator correctly adjust to 14.1 volts at running speed as per the battery company requirements for changing (Interstate AGM).

One last thing. I had an issue where the left rear window did not work. Turns out the wire shorted in the left kick panel. Several wires were melted together and it looks like it tried to catch the insulation on fire.

What happened is that the SPOT WELDS on that kick panel left some spurs sticking up and one punctured the wire. I noted on that side, but not the other several more spurs. IA bad spot welder of person using it. I had to grind them off. Check your drivers side kick panel and add some insulation over the wires on that side.

In the rain at night with everything running the voltage at idle is well above 12 volts with my foot on the brake (lights). No loss of headlight power. Great.

James

From: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> On Behalf Of Rich Barber
Sent: Sunday, November 17, 2024 23:10
To: 'Michael Van der veen' <michaelvanderveen8@xxxxxxxxx>; 'Chrysler list server' <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: {Chrysler 300} 300k starting issue

Mike:

Mate, you may have a really unsafe situation here. Power to the courtesy lamps comes direct from the alternator, via the bulkhead connector. At a junction point, wire R6 becomes R6A and attaches to the ALT stud on the ammeter. Other power flows from the junction to the Light Switch, Starter Switch, and to the “TAIL-STOP” & “CIGAR” fuses. If the engine is not running, all these loads will draw power backflow from the battery at the starter relay through the bulkhead connector and Ammeter and this is normal. If you are not getting power to the starter switch, lights, courtesy lamps, stop lamps, power seat(s), windows and top motor if any & etc., you may have a bad connection at the bulkhead which can lead to heat, melted bulkhead connector, melted insulation on the big red and black wires, short circuiting, smoke & destruction. Don’t ask me how I know. Too many ’64 MoPars have burnt to the ground because of a corroded, high-resistance joint in a marginally designed 1964 one-size fits all bulkhead connector. Of course, corroded/loose battery terminal(s) and/or a loose connection at the starter relay or the ammeter could be the simple solutions. Rarely, The low resistance component of the Ammeter could be burnt out or failed. This would prevent backflow of power from the battery.

Pleas pull the two eight-wire connectors from the under-hood side of the bulkhead connector and examine them for obvious corrosion or signs of overheating of insulation on wires or the bulkhead connector itself. And then let us know you have solved the problem before your car’s electrical system failed the smoke test.

See pages 98,99 & 101 at http://www.jholst.net/64-service-manual/electrical.pdf for wiring diagrams or go direct to: http://www.jholst.net/wiring/wiring.pdf

Keep calm and carry on. She’ll be right, mate.

Rich Barber

Brentwood CA

1964 300K conv.

From: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> On Behalf Of Michael Van der veen
Sent: Sunday, November 17, 2024 8:17 PM
To: Chrysler list server <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: {Chrysler 300} 300k starting issue

Hi all,

I've been test driving the silver turquoise 300k around and trying to iron out some running issues. So after driving around for a couple of hrs it cut out and I couldn't start it via the key. I know there can be issues with the bulkhead connector, there is no power to the ignition switch and no console light comes on when you open the door. No fuses are blown and you can start the car by bridging the terminals on the starter relay and connecting the coil to the battery. When you do this the car will run and drive and lights in the console work when you open the door. The ignition switch still won't work. The car has 42k miles on it and alot of electrical parts have been replaced. Does anyone have any ideas besides the bulkhead connector?

Thanks in advance for any help you can provide

Cheers,

Mike approaching summer heat, in Australia

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