Hi Bill THHN /THWN orceither alone means thermoplastic super heat resistant ( regular building wire is THN /TW ) and it is common as it allows higher current .It has a nylon outer jacket — very tough , to avoid cutting in ( the N) The W less important, means weather / water resistant All the marine and car wire is cheap stuff , insulation melts right next to solder , aggravating to use , mess . You don't want to tin before you wrap as described , you cant . makes a big blob of twisted “ solid wires “ yiu can wrap nice snd small before , once tinned/ soldered it is one . but tinning is really good before a crimp on on hi amp things Thanks for feedback , John On Nov 18, 2024, at 11:40 AM, William Huff <whuff@xxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
John, I've had good luck using pretinned marine wire, with heavy
crimp then solder for connections and terminals. Always try to
double shrink wrap to avoid movement next to the stiff soldered
joints.
Marine
Primary Wire Tinned Copper USA Made Boat Wire
Bill Huff
On 11/18/2024 8:31 AM, John Grady
wrote:
hi ,
This is a classic bulkhead failure , common on
mopar that have them up till 1980 at least. Dodge trucks too
. Stop dead after a heavy period of chargibg burns up the 1/4
flag connector . As EE i can tell you those are in trouble at 20
A — they tried to push 50-70 A from alternator through it .
Absolutely a design mistake Also on many later mopar radiator
fan connectors.
Look at the size if prong on any UL extension cord
. THAT is a 15 -20 a prong ….
Fix :
Buy a few feet 8 or 10 gauge THHN stranded building
wire at HD , match gauge you have , Cut the 2 wires at connector
4 places leave it seated . open harness 6” to give yourself some
rope , may want to shorten factory a few inches on engine side
so it looks good and room to work . Buy 3/8” shrink tubes at HD
made for well splices .
remove M And F connectors from bulkhead . Drill 1/4
hole through same place they were , strip ends of all wires 1”
splay out and wrap title then solder ( need 100 W or more
iron or gun to do a good job) You put the sleeves on first
right ?
keep sleeves well back ( few inches from
soldering) then position and shrink with heat gun 4 places
“ car wire” from napa etc us junk will melt .
Connector was a factory assembly aid will never
be touched again
Another way is to drill two ~ 3/8” hokes near
connector run wires through , but you MUST use rubber grommet
there . Cut wire = fire .
It is really good to add a fusible link at starter
relay at main car feed , sold at napa for fords .
hope this helps , Jg
PS don't even think of crimp connectors or in
line bullets here , will burn up
On Nov 18, 2024, at 2:46 AM, Michael Van
der veen <michaelvanderveen8@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Thanks Rick. The auto electrician is half a mile
away hopefully as there is no power inside the car it'll be
ok. I just tried another ignition switch and no cigar. I'll
bet it's the plug cheers
Mike
On Mon, Nov 18, 2024, 6:33
PM Rich Barber < c300@xxxxxxx>
wrote:
Watch for
smell of burning insulation or other plastic, or
irregular action of ammeter. Be
prepared to put out an under hood and/or under
dash fire and be ready to quickly remove one of
the battery cables—preferably the ground cable.
And those cables could be hot so carry
gloves.
Best
wishes, mate.
Rich
Hi Rich,
I've pulled the connections and cleaned what I
can but the red and black have slightly melted
the plastic but can still be re connected. This
is prob the issue. I can hot wire the car to get
it to run. I'm planning to take it to the auto
electrician on tue wed or Thurs this week
On Mon, Nov 18,
2024, 6:10 PM Rich Barber <c300@xxxxxxx>
wrote:
Mike:
Mate,
you may have a really unsafe situation
here. Power to the courtesy lamps comes
direct from the alternator, via the
bulkhead connector. At a junction
point, wire R6 becomes R6A and attaches
to the ALT stud on the ammeter. Other
power flows from the junction to the
Light Switch, Starter Switch, and to the
“TAIL-STOP” & “CIGAR” fuses. If the
engine is not running, all these loads
will draw power backflow from the
battery at the starter relay through the
bulkhead connector and Ammeter and this
is normal. If you are not getting power
to the starter switch, lights, courtesy
lamps, stop lamps, power seat(s),
windows and top motor if any & etc.,
you may have a bad connection at the
bulkhead which can lead to heat, melted
bulkhead connector, melted insulation on
the big red and black wires, short
circuiting, smoke & destruction.
Don’t ask me how I know. Too many ’64
MoPars have burnt to the ground because
of a corroded, high-resistance joint in
a marginally designed 1964 one-size fits
all bulkhead connector. Of course,
corroded/loose battery terminal(s)
and/or a loose connection at the starter
relay or the ammeter could be the simple
solutions. Rarely, The low resistance
component of the Ammeter could be burnt
out or failed. This would prevent
backflow of power from the battery.
Pleas
pull the two eight-wire connectors from
the under-hood side of the bulkhead
connector and examine them for obvious
corrosion or signs of overheating of
insulation on wires or the bulkhead
connector itself. And then let us know
you have solved the problem before your
car’s electrical system failed the smoke
test.
See
pages 98,99 & 101 at http://www.jholst.net/64-service-manual/electrical.pdf
for wiring diagrams or go direct to: http://www.jholst.net/wiring/wiring.pdf
Keep
calm and carry on. She’ll be right,
mate.
Rich
Barber
Brentwood
CA
1964
300K conv.
Hi all,
I've been
test driving the silver turquoise
300k around and trying to iron out
some running issues. So after
driving around for a couple of hrs
it cut out and I couldn't start it
via the key. I know there can be
issues with the bulkhead connector,
there is no power to the ignition
switch and no console light comes on
when you open the door. No fuses
are blown and you can start the car
by bridging the terminals on the
starter relay and connecting the
coil to the battery. When you do
this the car will run and drive and
lights in the console work when you
open the door. The ignition switch
still won't work. The car has 42k
miles on it and alot of electrical
parts have been replaced. Does
anyone have any ideas besides the
bulkhead connector?
Thanks in
advance for any help you can provide
Mike
approaching summer heat, in
Australia
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