RE: {Chrysler 300} 300k starting issue

I like to use SXL polyethylene auto wire. Higher heat resistance and better chemical resistance then PCV auto wire.

James

From: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> On Behalf Of John Grady
Sent: Monday, November 18, 2024 08:56
To: William Huff <whuff@xxxxxxxxxx>
Cc: chrysler 300 club <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: {Chrysler 300} 300k starting issue

Hi Bill THHN /THWN orceither alone means thermoplastic super heat resistant ( regular building wire is THN /TW ) and it is common as it allows higher current .It has a nylon outer jacket — very tough , to avoid cutting in ( the N) The W less important, means weather / water resistant

All the marine and car wire is cheap stuff , insulation melts right next to solder , aggravating to use , mess .

You don't want to tin before you wrap as described , you cant . makes a big blob of twisted “ solid wires “ yiu can wrap nice snd small before , once tinned/ soldered it is one .

but tinning is really good before a crimp on on hi amp things

Thanks for feedback ,

John

On Nov 18, 2024, at 11:40 AM, William Huff <whuff@xxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

John, I've had good luck using pretinned marine wire, with heavy crimp then solder for connections and terminals. Always try to double shrink wrap to avoid movement next to the stiff soldered joints.

Marine Primary Wire Tinned Copper USA Made Boat Wire

Bill Huff

On 11/18/2024 8:31 AM, John Grady wrote:

hi ,

This is a classic bulkhead failure , common on mopar that have them up till 1980 at least. Dodge trucks too . Stop dead after a heavy period of chargibg burns up the 1/4 flag connector . As EE i can tell you those are in trouble at 20 A — they tried to push 50-70 A from alternator through it . Absolutely a design mistake Also on many later mopar radiator fan connectors.

Look at the size if prong on any UL extension cord . THAT is a 15 -20 a prong ….

Fix :

Buy a few feet 8 or 10 gauge THHN stranded building wire at HD , match gauge you have , Cut the 2 wires at connector 4 places leave it seated . open harness 6” to give yourself some rope , may want to shorten factory a few inches on engine side so it looks good and room to work . Buy 3/8” shrink tubes at HD made for well splices .

remove M And F connectors from bulkhead . Drill 1/4 hole through same place they were , strip ends of all wires 1” splay out and wrap title then solder ( need 100 W or more iron or gun to do a good job) You put the sleeves on first right ?

keep sleeves well back ( few inches from soldering) then position and shrink with heat gun 4 places

“ car wire” from napa etc us junk will melt .

Connector was a factory assembly aid will never be touched again

Another way is to drill two ~ 3/8” hokes near connector run wires through , but you MUST use rubber grommet there . Cut wire = fire .

It is really good to add a fusible link at starter relay at main car feed , sold at napa for fords .

hope this helps , Jg

PS don't even think of crimp connectors or in line bullets here , will burn up

On Nov 18, 2024, at 2:46 AM, Michael Van der veen <michaelvanderveen8@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Thanks Rick. The auto electrician is half a mile away hopefully as there is no power inside the car it'll be ok. I just tried another ignition switch and no cigar. I'll bet it's the plug cheers
Mike

On Mon, Nov 18, 2024, 6:33 PM Rich Barber <c300@xxxxxxx> wrote:

Watch for smell of burning insulation or other plastic, or irregular action of ammeter. Be prepared to put out an under hood and/or under dash fire and be ready to quickly remove one of the battery cables—preferably the ground cable. And those cables could be hot so carry gloves.

Best wishes, mate.

Rich

From: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> On Behalf Of Michael Van der veen
Sent: Sunday, November 17, 2024 11:19 PM
To: Rich Barber <c300@xxxxxxx>
Cc: Chrysler list server <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: {Chrysler 300} 300k starting issue

Hi Rich,
I've pulled the connections and cleaned what I can but the red and black have slightly melted the plastic but can still be re connected. This is prob the issue. I can hot wire the car to get it to run. I'm planning to take it to the auto electrician on tue wed or Thurs this week

On Mon, Nov 18, 2024, 6:10 PM Rich Barber <c300@xxxxxxx> wrote:

Mike:

Mate, you may have a really unsafe situation here. Power to the courtesy lamps comes direct from the alternator, via the bulkhead connector. At a junction point, wire R6 becomes R6A and attaches to the ALT stud on the ammeter. Other power flows from the junction to the Light Switch, Starter Switch, and to the “TAIL-STOP” & “CIGAR” fuses. If the engine is not running, all these loads will draw power backflow from the battery at the starter relay through the bulkhead connector and Ammeter and this is normal. If you are not getting power to the starter switch, lights, courtesy lamps, stop lamps, power seat(s), windows and top motor if any & etc., you may have a bad connection at the bulkhead which can lead to heat, melted bulkhead connector, melted insulation on the big red and black wires, short circuiting, smoke & destruction. Don’t ask me how I know. Too many ’64 MoPars have burnt to the ground because of a corroded, high-resistance joint in a marginally designed 1964 one-size fits all bulkhead connector. Of course, corroded/loose battery terminal(s) and/or a loose connection at the starter relay or the ammeter could be the simple solutions. Rarely, The low resistance component of the Ammeter could be burnt out or failed. This would prevent backflow of power from the battery.

Pleas pull the two eight-wire connectors from the under-hood side of the bulkhead connector and examine them for obvious corrosion or signs of overheating of insulation on wires or the bulkhead connector itself.   And then let us know you have solved the problem before your car’s electrical system failed the smoke test.

See pages 98,99 & 101 at http://www.jholst.net/64-service-manual/electrical.pdf for wiring diagrams or go direct to: http://www.jholst.net/wiring/wiring.pdf

Keep calm and carry on. She’ll be right, mate.

Rich Barber

Brentwood CA

1964 300K conv.

From: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> On Behalf Of Michael Van der veen
Sent: Sunday, November 17, 2024 8:17 PM
To: Chrysler list server <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: {Chrysler 300} 300k starting issue

Hi all,

I've been test driving the silver turquoise 300k around and trying to iron out some running issues. So after driving around for a couple of hrs it cut out and I couldn't start it via the key. I know there can be issues with the bulkhead connector, there is no power to the ignition switch and no console light comes on when you open the door. No fuses are blown and you can start the car by bridging the terminals on the starter relay and connecting the coil to the battery. When you do this the car will run and drive and lights in the console work when you open the door. The ignition switch still won't work. The car has 42k miles on it and alot of electrical parts have been replaced. Does anyone have any ideas besides the bulkhead connector?

Thanks in advance for any help you can provide

Cheers,

Mike approaching summer heat, in Australia

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