Re: [Chrysler300] Motor

["Don Verity" <d.verity@xxxx>]

Gary, Ryan, and group,
If you are going to go bigger than .060 the block should be sonic tested.
This will show how much meat there is in the bore and identify and core
shift. You would probably need custom pistons, as most manufacturers stop at
.060. The block can also be sleeved back to standard size. If a shop tells
you they don't charge for using a torque plate, they are getting the money
elsewhere by charging more. There are 17 head bolts on a big block Chrysler.
Torqueing these in increments up to specs is time consuming, and would be
throwing money away for the shop doing the job. Like Gary and my machinist
said, it's really not necessary for a street rebuild. Something else that
hasn't been mentioned is that by boring out the block, you also raise
compression.
These engines of ours are now mostly over 40 years old. You can't just
slap rings and bearings into in and be done. For a proper rebuild you need
to start from the bottom literally and make sure the block is right. The
first step is align boring the block. This makes sure all the crank bores
are in line and round. Next would be to deck it, which is cutting the tops
of the block square with the crank centerline, after which it would be
bored. The rods also need to be checked and reconditioned, the crank ground,
and the rotating assembly balanced. The heads will need hardened seats, and
most likely new valves, springs, and guides (or liners). Shops with modern
equipment use a carbide cutter that cuts all the seat angles at once, and
can hold depth measurements to less that .0005 inch. Rebuilding an engine
properly is not cheap. Expect to spend $4000 or more, if they assemble it
for you. A little less if you do some work yourself. It's also difficult to
find a good machine shop. Look for someone who does it for a living, not
someone who will do it when "things get slow". If they are reputable they
will show you around the shop and explain the different steps in rebuilding
your engine. The shop I use does everything in house except for crank
grinding. The cost of the machine is so expensive that it would have to be
running all the time to pay for itself. I'm sure there are those who have
re-ringed there engine and say it runs fine, but how long is it going to
last? A professionally rebuilt engine will actually be better than when it
was new, as the block has been "seasoned" and will stay in tolerance after
it has been machined. It will also increase the value of your car.
300ly,
Don
----- Original Message -----
From: Ryan Hill <ryan_hillc300@xxxx>
To: <gary@xxxx>; <gearhead.girl@xxxx>;
<Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2002 10:36 PM
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Motor


> Just for clarification Gary, most wouldn't bore a street engine any more
> than it had to be bored but I've been told a 383 can be bored up to 90
thou
> and a 440 to as much as 80 by a very reputable builder in my area.(I've
> never taken one more than .060 myself) Obviously availablity of piston in
> that diameter is an important issue to consider but knowing how much
> material is actually there gives an idea of how safe it really is taking a
B
> or RB block to that oversize. Many people tend to think .060 is leaving
very
> little 'meat' there.
>
> As for the torque plate, I've never been charged extra to have one used
and
> if your builder has one for your engine you are better to use it than not.
> Its purpose is simply to preload the block to simulate the installation of
> the heads while the machining is being performed so that when you bolt
your
> heads on there is no distortion in the cylinder walls. This seems like a
> positive procedure to me so long as there is no real additional cost.
Maybe
> it wasn't worth mentioning but I usually like to cover these details when
> people ask and let them decide.
>
> On another subject, has anyone been in contact with Gary Goers lately? He
> shorted me my interior carpet on my 'big' order and he hasn't been
> responding to my emails for the past four weeks. It's unlike him.....is he
> alright? I don't want to bug him by calling him but I guess I might have
to.
>
> Ryan