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There are 15 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: 300 M
From: RONVE@xxxxxxx
2. Re: 413 Motor
From: "D. Moore" <dintym@xxxxxxxxx>
3. '57 300 Sill Plates - wanted
From: "Vath, Michael J." <mjvath@xxxxxxxxx>
4. Door handle retainers
From: "Warren R Anderson" <wranderson@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
5. 300 M
From: "Moana & Gerry Steinberg" <mopar@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: Motor
From: "Ryan Hill" <ryan_hillc300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
7. Re: '57 300 Sill Plates - wanted
From: "Timothy D. Bowers" <tbowers1@xxxxxxxxxx>
8. 57 300 C
From: vhelbling@xxxxxxx
9. Re: 57 300 C
From: Brian Hagen <brian.hagen@xxxxxxxxxxx>
10. Can you identify these door handles?
From: Brian Hagen <brian.hagen@xxxxxxxxxxx>
11. Winner of Girt Certificate
From: "Don Verity" <d.verity@xxxxxxx>
12. Re: Motor
From: Gary Nelson <Gary@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
13. Sag Harbor summer picnic
From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
14. Re: Motor
From: "Ryan Hill" <ryan_hillc300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
15. Re: Motor
From: Mike Apfelbeck <moparmike@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 08:42:39 EDT
From: RONVE@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: 300 M
In a message dated 5/23/2002 1:10:01 AM Central Daylight Time,
mopar@xxxxxxxxxxxx writes:
> Hi: Anybody know about a club(s) for 300 M??
> Any info is greatly appreciated.
> Thanks,
> Gerry, Sierra Vista, AZ
>
Gerry,
See if this one is any help! <A HREF="" href="http://www.300mclub.org/index.html">http://www.300mclub.org/index.html">Chrysler 300M Enthusiasts Club</A>
Hope you guys are having a great Spring in the Desert.
Ron...
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 06:59:34 -0700 (PDT)
From: "D. Moore" <dintym@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: 413 Motor
With regard to cutting valve seats (although you are going with hardnened
seats) I have read that it is better to have the 3 angle cut with a single
cutter versus the more traditional methods. I have ground seats using 3
different stones to get 3 angle cut for better sealing.
Also, on the 413, can it be bored over .060"?
Dave Moore
--- Jennifer Allyn <gearhead.girl@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> Pulling the 413 out of Jennifer's '62 300 tomorrow and taking it to my
> machinist.
> It's already been bored once.
> Planning to have the hardened valve seats put in.
> Will probably run a cam that's a step up from stock (this is the mild
> motor, no solid lifters here)
>
> Anyone have any words of wisdom I can't live without before my machinist
> goes to work?
>
> Thanks,
> Matt Allyn
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
__________________________________________________
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LAUNCH - Your Yahoo! Music Experience
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 11:00:29 -0400
From: "Vath, Michael J." <mjvath@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: '57 300 Sill Plates - wanted
Good morning & happy Thursday.
I'm hunting a pair of used 300 door sill plates for my '57. Can't afford repros...just hoping someone has one or two leftovers. They needn't be pretty.
I don't know if these were the same though '59. Imagine so.
Thanks an have a great weekend. Mike V
---
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 08:19:26 -0700
From: "Warren R Anderson" <wranderson@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Door handle retainers
>Hi, Does anyone have a KD Tool made to remover Chrysler 55 vintage and
possibly other yrs Door handles and window cranks for sale? If not does
anyone know where to buy one? On first round we broke clips, Is there a
source for these clips?
Tools that I have found in catalogs are flat. My personal tool is an old KD
No. 430 and is a pliers arrangement. Either type should work. Most parts
stores should have the flat type or Snap-On and Matco list the flat type.
Whitney shows one for less than $5.
Clips show up in Dorman catalog and do not appear at a quick glance in Year
One catalog. Should be available in NAPA trim hardware line. Clips should
also be available in less than full package quantities from local friendly
body shop if you give him a good one to match.
Warren Anderson
Sedona,AZ
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 08:51:26 -0700
From: "Moana & Gerry Steinberg" <mopar@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: 300 M
Hi: Thanks to all for your help finding a 300 M club.
www.300Mclub.org
seems to be the easiest to get into.
Gerry,
Arizona
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 10:38:11 -0700
From: "Ryan Hill" <ryan_hillc300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Motor
With regards to the machining of the block, you should be able to take that
block to at least 70 or 80 thousands overbore but I'm not sure what you will
require? In any case it is good practice to use a torque plate when doing
the boring.....especially when you are reducing the wall thickness
dramatically. Also, when assembling the short-block be sure and use a rope
seal around the rear crank journal(rear seal). They last much longer than
the cheap seals provided in most gasket kits.
As for the heads, if you have access to a die grinder you can port match the
intake to the head very easily and improve the flow quite a bit. Here's a
trick:
When you remove the intake from the head, remove the valley pan and clean
off the pan and the head mating surfaces. Lay the valley pan back in place
and bolt it down if needed to center it. Inside the openings on the pan you
will likely see quite a bit of head material that doesn't match the port
pattern of the gasket.......spray some grey primer,white paint, etc. at the
gasket on all the ports. When you remove the gasket you will have a perfect
pattern painted around each port. With a die grinder, remove the material
that is painted to give you a perfect "port match". Be carefull to grind at
a 90 degree(+/-) angle from the machined surface and don't damage the mating
surface.
In addition to removing the excess material from the lip of the port you
should also smooth out any slag or burrs inside the runner that may cause
extreme turbulence. Do not smooth out the runners too much as there should
be some roughness to the runners to properly mix the Air/Fuel as it heads to
the cylinders.
Repeat the process with the same gasket to the intake manifold and you will
improve the flow and equalize the volumes being delivered to the combustion
chambers. This can also be done with the exhaust side. There are some power
gains to be had here but at the very least the engine will run smoother.
If the engine has been machined before, check the deck height and be
carefull about removing any more material from the block or head. You could
end up increasing your compression ratio, having a problem mating the intake
to the head, and in extreme cases cause rocker arm failure(even with
hydraulic lifters). This problem can easily be solved with thicker head
gaskets but it's always better to know before you assemble the engine.
Remember also that with any cam change and flow changes that your carb
should be adjusted or modified to allow for the new demands.
Hope this helps. Ryan
_________________________________________________________________
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 15:32:31 -0500
From: "Timothy D. Bowers" <tbowers1@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: '57 300 Sill Plates - wanted
Hey, Mike;
I've got used sill plates from our 300C project that we can probably sell. Need to confirm with the owner, though.
Tim Bowers
"Vath, Michael J." wrote:
> Good morning & happy Thursday.
>
> I'm hunting a pair of used 300 door sill plates for my '57. Can't afford repros...just hoping someone has one or two leftovers. They needn't be pretty.
> I don't know if these were the same though '59. Imagine so.
> Thanks an have a great weekend. Mike V
>
> ---
>
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For list server instructions, go to http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 16:30:01 EDT
From: vhelbling@xxxxxxx
Subject: 57 300 C
I need some help.
I have a rh and a lh front apron splash shield that I purchased from Gary
Goers. They are rubber, measure approx 2 1/4 x 8 1/4 and have a slight curve.
I also have front gravel shield, a rubber part that measures 2 3/4 x 35 1/2
also from Goers.
Where do they attach to? Are they stapled like the rubber apron part over
the a-arm? The parts are listed in Goers catalog #8 page 25. Thanks for
help.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 16:42:56 -0400
From: Brian Hagen <brian.hagen@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: 57 300 C
Can anyone tell me what years and what applications these door handles were
used on? I know its up to 1962, but im not sure what models and years leadin
up to that.
See them here:
http://www.scatpack.com/DCP_3362.jpg
Thanks in advance!
Brian
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 16:47:56 -0400
From: Brian Hagen <brian.hagen@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Can you identify these door handles?
Can anyone tell me what years and what applications these door handles were
used on? I know its up to 1962, but im not sure what models and years leadin
up to that.
See them here:
http://www.scatpack.com/DCP_3362.jpg
Thanks in advance!
Brian
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 20:11:21 -0400
From: "Don Verity" <d.verity@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Winner of Girt Certificate
Hi All,
I've got all the winners of the gift certificates that were raffled off at the meet except one. Is the person on-line that won the $10 off on a carpet purchase? If so, let me know. I can then give the list of winners to Legendary.
300ly,
Don
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 17:28:25 -0700
From: Gary Nelson <Gary@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Motor
My opinion:
I would think twice about boring a motor more than .060" over. Most
standard pistons are only offered .030" to .060" over.
When I had my 392 short block rebuilt by Dick Landy's shop it had already
been bored to .060" over. They would not bore it and honed it to .065" over
and made custom pistons for .065" over.
As far as using torque plates. They are used when power honing not boring.
I asked if they were going to use torque plates when honing my engine. They
told me for a street application your wasting your money. Torque plates
will give you as near perfect ring seal as you will get, but only needed in
a race application when you must have the most power the engine will put
out. At Landy's prices I am sure they would have been glade to put it on my
invoice if they thought it should have been done.
A good power hone cross hatch with molly rings will do a fine job for any
street motor.
Always use a good reputable machine shop with known qualified personnel.
Boring, honing, decking, surfacing, align honing, rod rebuilding and
balancing are all very precision operations. Most tolerances are held to
1/2 of one thousandths of an inch. A slam bang re builder will produce a
lower performing motor with a shortened life.
Gary, The Parts Doc
At 10:38 AM 5/23/02, Ryan Hill wrote:
>With regards to the machining of the block, you should be able to take that
>block to at least 70 or 80 thousands overbore but I'm not sure what you will
>require? In any case it is good practice to use a torque plate when doing
>the boring.....especially when you are reducing the wall thickness
>dramatically. Also, when assembling the short-block be sure and use a rope
>seal around the rear crank journal(rear seal). They last much longer than
>the cheap seals provided in most gasket kits.
>
>As for the heads, if you have access to a die grinder you can port match the
>intake to the head very easily and improve the flow quite a bit. Here's a
>trick:
>
>When you remove the intake from the head, remove the valley pan and clean
>off the pan and the head mating surfaces. Lay the valley pan back in place
>and bolt it down if needed to center it. Inside the openings on the pan you
>will likely see quite a bit of head material that doesn't match the port
>pattern of the gasket.......spray some grey primer,white paint, etc. at the
>gasket on all the ports. When you remove the gasket you will have a perfect
>pattern painted around each port. With a die grinder, remove the material
>that is painted to give you a perfect "port match". Be carefull to grind at
>a 90 degree(+/-) angle from the machined surface and don't damage the mating
>surface.
>
>In addition to removing the excess material from the lip of the port you
>should also smooth out any slag or burrs inside the runner that may cause
>extreme turbulence. Do not smooth out the runners too much as there should
>be some roughness to the runners to properly mix the Air/Fuel as it heads to
>the cylinders.
>
>Repeat the process with the same gasket to the intake manifold and you will
>improve the flow and equalize the volumes being delivered to the combustion
>chambers. This can also be done with the exhaust side. There are some power
>gains to be had here but at the very least the engine will run smoother.
>
>If the engine has been machined before, check the deck height and be
>carefull about removing any more material from the block or head. You could
>end up increasing your compression ratio, having a problem mating the intake
>to the head, and in extreme cases cause rocker arm failure(even with
>hydraulic lifters). This problem can easily be solved with thicker head
>gaskets but it's always better to know before you assemble the engine.
>
>Remember also that with any cam change and flow changes that your carb
>should be adjusted or modified to allow for the new demands.
>
>Hope this helps. Ryan
>
>
>_________________________________________________________________
>MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
>http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
>
>
>
>To send a message to this group, send an email to:
>Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>For list server instructions, go to
>http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 21:10:18 -0400
From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Sag Harbor summer picnic
Hi, friends !
Once again, summer is here, and it's time to think about the annual summer
picnic ... Helen and I have picked Thursday, July 4th (with a raindate of
Saturday , July 6th ) for this event. This should allow people who usually
work on Saturdays to attend this year !
We hope you will be able to join us and celebrate the 4th of July with us
this year ! Please mark your calendars, and RSVP by June 20th or
thereabouts if you plan on attending. I will e-mail back directions to those
who have not been here yet. Traffic returning towards NYC or NJ or New
England and other areas should be moderate, as most people will be spending
the long weekend in the Hamptons.
We look forward to sharing this day with you in Sag Harbor !
John and Helen
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 19:36:29 -0700
From: "Ryan Hill" <ryan_hillc300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Motor
Just for clarification Gary, most wouldn't bore a street engine any more
than it had to be bored but I've been told a 383 can be bored up to 90 thou
and a 440 to as much as 80 by a very reputable builder in my area.(I've
never taken one more than .060 myself) Obviously availablity of piston in
that diameter is an important issue to consider but knowing how much
material is actually there gives an idea of how safe it really is taking a B
or RB block to that oversize. Many people tend to think .060 is leaving very
little 'meat' there.
As for the torque plate, I've never been charged extra to have one used and
if your builder has one for your engine you are better to use it than not.
Its purpose is simply to preload the block to simulate the installation of
the heads while the machining is being performed so that when you bolt your
heads on there is no distortion in the cylinder walls. This seems like a
positive procedure to me so long as there is no real additional cost. Maybe
it wasn't worth mentioning but I usually like to cover these details when
people ask and let them decide.
On another subject, has anyone been in contact with Gary Goers lately? He
shorted me my interior carpet on my 'big' order and he hasn't been
responding to my emails for the past four weeks. It's unlike him.....is he
alright? I don't want to bug him by calling him but I guess I might have to.
Ryan
_________________________________________________________________
Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 21:31:02 -0700
From: Mike Apfelbeck <moparmike@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Motor
Some of the later blocks are thin wall castings, it's always a good idea to
double check on what you have before you start gouging away. There is
always the possibility of core shift to consider also, a block should
always be checked for adequate wall thickness first.
Mike
At 07:36 PM 5/23/02 -0700, Ryan Hill wrote:
> I've been told a 383 can be bored up to 90 thou
>and a 440 to as much as 80 by a very reputable builder in my area.(I've
>never taken one more than .060 myself) Obviously availablity of piston in
>that diameter is an important issue to consider but knowing how much
>material is actually there gives an idea of how safe it really is taking a B
>or RB block to that oversize. Many people tend to think .060 is leaving very
>little 'meat' there.
________________________________________________________________________
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