AMEN....and that was merely the point I was trying to make (outraged
PM's to
the contrary)....
Our cars ARE death-traps!
But, who wants to live forever?
Seriously....if I could change one aspect in them (after OEM seat
belts)...
I'd like to see locking seat-backs.
The primary purpose of seat belts is to keep the driver behind the
steering
wheel, and in (theoretical) control of the vehicle.
Anyone who has ever slammed on his car's brakes has experienced the
seat back
slamming forward, disorienting him to varying degrees.
Also, anyone in the back seat will 'fly' forward into the driver's
backside....which
is not conducive to the control of the car.
The mid-late 60's MoPars have a very simple, but effective seat lock
mechanism
that is accessed under the rear of the front seat.
Unfortunately, that simple-system is incompatible with the 1957
plastic power
seat housing, which enshrouds the entire lower area of the
seat...but, for any other
year, this lock system is relatively easy to retrofit onto a car's
seat frame.
Neil Vedder
On 8/4/2014 3:06 PM, Jim wrote:
I know it's possible for brake MC to fail but in 50
years of driving I myself have had brakes fail only once and
it wasn't the MC, it was a front wheel cylinder and I don't
know anyone else who has ever had a MC fail. Wear out
enough that they had to pump the brakes, yes, but they knew
it and it caused no problems. It seems like a silly thing
to worry and obsess over when you consider that the entire
old car is a death trap compared to todays cars.
Jim
Let's see, 68 Barracuda
Formula S with dual pot power disc brakes, 57
Dodge pick up with single pot original brakes,
65 Rambler Marlin with dual pot power disc
brakes, and a 59 Rambler Custom sedan with
single pot drum brakes so I guess we are on the
fence with this one, but I can tell you which
ones I am more comfortable driving in todays
traffic.
Sent: Monday, August 04, 2014 11:59
AM
Subject: Re: [FWDLK] RB 383 cam
Here’s the Mobil page:
It lists ZDDP as ppm, not percentage like
Valvoline’s website. It’s only the 15W-50
that’s got high ZDDP.
--Roger van Hoy
Sent: Sunday, August 03, 2014
5:59 PM
Subject: Re: [FWDLK] RB 383
cam
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Mopar Action On-line - Tech
Questions
HOME IN PRINT TECH EXTRAS CONTACT
Tech Question Robert
Zieller, Middletown CT, 1970
Dodge Dart Swinger 340 Hi
Rich, I need to replace the
front brake r...
|
|
|
|
Preview by Yahoo
|
|
|
Valvoline 20/50 Racing; lots
of ZDDP, for me.
And, even, Hemmings has gotten
into the act, by selling
synthetic
(which is really over-kill,
IMHO) ZDDP-loaded motor oil.
Whether ZDDP is needed or not,
in a lightly-used engine (like
all of ours
are)....it is 'cheap' insurance
and can not hurt anything, but
our
pocketbooks---check Hemmings'
6-pack pricing (photo
attachment).
Neil Vedder
On 8/3/2014 4:24 PM,
Richard Whelan wrote:
We
use Brad Penn, made in the
old Kendall refinery in
Bradford PA. Similar to
Kendall GT-1 with plenty
of ZDDP. Dick
Sent: Sunday,
August 03, 2014 6:30 PM
Subject: Re:
[FWDLK] RB 383 cam
Another approach is
to use Valvoline VR-1
racing oil; it has more
ZDDP.
However, a friend
showed me an article in
the Packard Pelican or
whatever it is that says
VR-1 doesn’t have enough
detergent. I suspect
it’s still more than oil
50 years ago.
--Roger van Hoy
Sent:
Sunday, August 03,
2014 12:16 PM
Subject:
Re: [FWDLK] RB 383
cam
I've found two
easy ways to get the
ZDDP back in the
oil. One is to buy
the Redline Break-In
Additive and use
about 3 oz of it
with each oil
change. The other,
even easier, is to
buy a can of STP,
which has the right
amount of ZDDP in
it, when you buy the
oil and filter and
put the STP in along
with the new oil.
The advantage of the
Redline is that it's
actually a little
cheaper per dose and
is easy to poor.
The STP is thick and
hard to pour. But
the STP is available
anywhere so it's
pretty convenient.
Thanks
for the input
guys. I agree
about the
oil. I've
driven the car
a total of
about 10 miles
since buying
it from
another list
member who
also didn't
drive it
during his
ownership I
believe.
There is a
receipt from a
commercial
garage showing
a ring and
bearing job,
but the
receipt has no
date on it.
The inside of
the engine is
very clean and
the oil isn't
bad either so
since that
minor overhaul
it must have
been
reasonably
maintained,
but of course
with low ZDDP
oil like we
are all stuck
with in the
mainstream
oils. I'm
thinking of
using rotella
once I'm back
up and running
since I don't
have a
converter to
get clogged up
with zinc.
Bill
& Kathi
Parker, South
Central
Indiana,
harboring of
bunch of old
and newer
Mopars
On Sun,
Aug 3, 2014 at
2:12 PM, Neil
Vedder <esierraadj@xxxxxxxxxxx>
wrote:
Oh, that
must be
absolutely
true, because
nobody in the
old car
hobby knows
about the
effects of NOT
having ZDDP in
flat tappet
car engines.
And, of
course, the
ruined cam
shafts render
the car and
its engine
completely
unrepairable
and worthless.
The car
mechanics, in
particular,
hate the
effects of
having to work
on these
damaged
engines.
Neil Vedder
On
8/3/2014 12:05
AM, Dave
Homstad wrote:
Bill,
You might give some thought as to WHY the cam has developed 3
bad lobes.
Here is a good article about how "OIL IS
KILLING OUR
CARS!!!!!".
Personnally, I think this is a plot by
the EPA to get
old cars off
the roads
quicker, by
removing the
ZDDP from our
oils.
Dave Homstad
56 Dodge D500
On Sat, Aug 2, 2014 at 6:43 PM, Bill
Parker wrote:
Hello all, I tore into
the '60
Saratoga
engine today,
an RB 383, and
as I suspected
from the
symptoms, it
has a wiped
camshaft. One
lobe is just a
little
nubbin', and
two others are
clearly half
what they
should be.
Seems like a
simple cam
swap is in
order except
of course for
the small
matter of
early B/RB
lifters and
pushrods being
different
dimensions
from the later
('66 and
later?)
stuff. From a
previous
experience
with putting a
cam and lifter
kit into a '65
engine, I
think I recall
that the late
lifters are
taller, and
must use the
late pushrods
to
compensate. I
could have it
backwards, but
in any case, I
think the
solution to
using a late
cam and lifter
kit is using
the late
pushrods too.
I have several
core 440
engines and
I'm thinking,
make a cam
selection, buy
the late style
lifters with
it, and use a
set of the 440
pushrods
(being that
both my '60
383 and the
440's are RB
engines with
the same deck
height).
Comments/cautions/suggestions?
This is not my
hot rod and I
plan to go
with a pretty
mild cam.
Bill & Kathi Parker, South
Central
Indiana,
harboring of
bunch of old
and newer
Mopars
*************************************************************
To unsubscribe or set your subscription
options,
please go to
*************************************************************
![]() |
This
email is free
from viruses
and malware
because avast!
Antivirus
protection is
active. |
*************************************************************
*************************************************************
No
virus found in this
message.
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com/
Version: 2014.0.4716 /
Virus Database:
3986/7969 - Release
Date: 08/02/14 *************************************************************
No virus
found in this message.
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com/
Version: 2014.0.4744 / Virus
Database: 3986/7975 -
Release Date: 08/03/14 *************************************************************
*************************************************************
![]() |
This
email is free from
viruses and malware
because avast!
Antivirus
protection is
active. |
*************************************************************
No virus found in this
message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2014.0.4716 / Virus Database:
3986/7976 - Release Date: 08/03/14 *************************************************************
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2014.0.4744 / Virus Database: 3986/7978 -
Release Date: 08/04/14 *************************************************************
*************************************************************
*************************************************************
To unsubscribe or set your
subscription options,
please go to
http://lists.psu.edu/cgi-bin/wa?SUBED1=l-forwardlook&A=1
Help
The Forward Look with every Amazon purchase by clicking
here!
Help the Forward Look
with every eBay purchase by starting your search here!
![]()
|
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
|
*************************************************************
To unsubscribe or set your subscription options,
please go to
http://lists.psu.edu/cgi-bin/wa?SUBED1=l-forwardlook&A=1
Help The Forward Look with every Amazon purchase by clicking here!
Help the Forward Look with every eBay purchase by starting your search here!
|
Back to the Home of the Forward Look Network