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Sorry I have an opinion after being an ASE Master Tech for most of my life
and having lost brakes before with a single master due to one part failing and
losing all pressure. You may enjoy your cars being death traps, I try to make
and keep mine as safe as possible. For a $26 master cylinder conversion I think
it's worth it. But I've also driven hundreds of thousands of miles
in vintage cars so maybe I have experienced more mishaps then some of
the guys on here. I'm done on the subject, enjoy guys and be safe.
Adam
In a message dated 8/4/2014 6:29:53 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
esierraadj@xxxxxxxxxxx writes:
AMEN....and that was merely the point I was trying to make
(outraged PM's to
the contrary)....
Our cars ARE
death-traps!
But, who wants to live forever?
Seriously....if I
could change one aspect in them (after OEM seat belts)...
I'd like to see
locking seat-backs.
The primary purpose of seat belts is to keep the
driver behind the steering
wheel, and in (theoretical) control of the
vehicle.
Anyone who has ever slammed on his car's brakes has
experienced the seat back
slamming forward, disorienting him to varying
degrees.
Also, anyone in the back seat will 'fly' forward into the
driver's backside....which
is not conducive to the control of the
car.
The mid-late 60's MoPars have a very simple, but effective seat
lock mechanism
that is accessed under the rear of the front
seat.
Unfortunately, that simple-system is incompatible with the 1957
plastic power
seat housing, which enshrouds the entire lower area of the
seat...but, for any other
year, this lock system is relatively easy to
retrofit onto a car's seat frame.
Neil Vedder
On 8/4/2014 3:06 PM, Jim wrote:
I know it's possible for brake MC to fail but in 50 years of
driving I myself have had brakes fail only once and it wasn't the MC, it was
a front wheel cylinder and I don't know anyone else who has ever had a MC
fail. Wear out enough that they had to pump the brakes, yes, but they
knew it and it caused no problems. It seems like a silly thing to
worry and obsess over when you consider that the entire old car is a death
trap compared to todays cars.
Jim
Let's see, 68 Barracuda Formula S with dual pot
power disc brakes, 57 Dodge pick up with single pot original brakes, 65
Rambler Marlin with dual pot power disc brakes, and a 59 Rambler Custom
sedan with single pot drum brakes so I guess we are on the fence with this
one, but I can tell you which ones I am more comfortable driving in todays
traffic.
Sent: Monday, August 04, 2014 11:59 AM
Subject: Re: [FWDLK] RB 383 cam
Here’s the Mobil page:
It lists ZDDP as ppm, not percentage like Valvoline’s website.
It’s only the 15W-50 that’s got high ZDDP.
--Roger van Hoy
Sent: Sunday, August 03, 2014 5:59 PM
Subject: Re: [FWDLK] RB 383 cam
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Valvoline 20/50 Racing; lots of ZDDP, for me. And, even, Hemmings has gotten into the act, by selling
synthetic (which is really over-kill, IMHO) ZDDP-loaded
motor oil. Whether ZDDP is needed or not, in
a lightly-used engine (like all of ours are)....it is
'cheap' insurance and can not hurt anything, but our pocketbooks---check Hemmings' 6-pack pricing (photo
attachment). Neil Vedder
On 8/3/2014 4:24 PM, Richard Whelan wrote:
We use Brad Penn, made in the old Kendall refinery
in Bradford PA. Similar to Kendall GT-1 with plenty of ZDDP.
Dick
Sent: Sunday, August 03, 2014 6:30 PM
Subject: Re: [FWDLK] RB 383 cam
Another approach is to use Valvoline VR-1 racing oil; it has more
ZDDP.
However, a friend showed me an article in the Packard Pelican or
whatever it is that says VR-1 doesn’t have enough detergent. I
suspect it’s still more than oil 50 years ago.
--Roger van Hoy
Sent: Sunday, August 03, 2014 12:16 PM
Subject: Re: [FWDLK] RB 383 cam
I've found two easy ways to get the ZDDP back in the oil. One is to
buy the Redline Break-In Additive and use about 3 oz of it with each oil
change. The other, even easier, is to buy a can of STP, which has
the right amount of ZDDP in it, when you buy the oil and filter and put
the STP in along with the new oil. The advantage of the Redline is
that it's actually a little cheaper per dose and is easy to poor.
The STP is thick and hard to pour. But the STP is available anywhere
so it's pretty convenient.
Thanks for the input guys. I agree about the
oil. I've driven the car a total of about 10 miles since buying it
from another list member who also didn't drive it during his ownership I
believe. There is a receipt from a commercial garage showing a
ring and bearing job, but the receipt has no date on it. The
inside of the engine is very clean and the oil isn't bad either so since
that minor overhaul it must have been reasonably maintained, but of
course with low ZDDP oil like we are all stuck with in the mainstream
oils. I'm thinking of using rotella once I'm back up and running
since I don't have a converter to get clogged up with zinc.
Bill & Kathi Parker, South Central Indiana, harboring of bunch
of old and newer Mopars
On Sun, Aug 3, 2014 at 2:12 PM, Neil Vedder <esierraadj@xxxxxxxxxxx>
wrote:
Oh, that must be absolutely true, because nobody in the old
car hobby knows about the effects of NOT having ZDDP in
flat tappet car engines. And, of course, the ruined cam shafts render the car and
its engine completely unrepairable and worthless. The car mechanics, in particular, hate the
effects of having to work on these damaged engines. Neil Vedder
On 8/3/2014 12:05 AM, Dave Homstad wrote:
Bill,
You might give some
thought as to WHY
the cam has developed 3 bad lobes.
Here is a good
article about how "OIL IS KILLING OUR CARS!!!!!".
Personnally, I
think this is a plot by the EPA to get old cars off the roads
quicker, by removing the ZDDP from our oils.
Dave Homstad
56 Dodge D500
On Sat, Aug 2, 2014
at 6:43 PM, Bill Parker wrote:
Hello all, I tore into the '60 Saratoga engine today, an RB
383, and as I suspected from the symptoms, it has a wiped
camshaft. One lobe is just a little nubbin', and two others
are clearly half what they should be. Seems like a simple cam
swap is in order except of course for the small matter of early B/RB
lifters and pushrods being different dimensions from the later ('66
and later?) stuff. From a previous experience with putting a
cam and lifter kit into a '65 engine, I think I recall that the late
lifters are taller, and must use the late pushrods to
compensate. I could have it backwards, but in any case, I
think the solution to using a late cam and lifter kit is using the
late pushrods too. I have several core 440 engines and I'm
thinking, make a cam selection, buy the late style lifters with it,
and use a set of the 440 pushrods (being that both my '60 383 and
the 440's are RB engines with the same deck height).
Comments/cautions/suggestions? This is not my hot rod and I
plan to go with a pretty mild cam.
Bill &
Kathi Parker, South Central Indiana, harboring of bunch of old and
newer Mopars
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