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Let's see, 68 Barracuda Formula S with dual pot power
disc brakes, 57 Dodge pick up with single pot original brakes, 65 Rambler Marlin
with dual pot power disc brakes, and a 59 Rambler Custom sedan with single pot
drum brakes so I guess we are on the fence with this one, but I can tell you
which ones I am more comfortable driving in todays traffic.
Sent: Monday, August 04, 2014 11:59 AM
Subject: Re: [FWDLK] RB 383 cam
Here’s the Mobil page:
It lists ZDDP as ppm, not percentage like Valvoline’s website. It’s
only the 15W-50 that’s got high ZDDP.
--Roger van Hoy
Sent: Sunday, August 03, 2014 5:59 PM
Subject: Re: [FWDLK] RB 383 cam
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Mopar Action On-line
- Tech Questions
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TECH EXTRAS CONTACT Tech Question Robert Zieller, Middletown CT, 1970
Dodge Dart Swinger 340 Hi Rich, I need to replace the front brake
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On Sunday, August 3, 2014 7:31 PM, Neil
Vedder <esierraadj@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Valvoline 20/50 Racing; lots of ZDDP, for me. And, even, Hemmings has gotten into the act, by selling synthetic (which is really over-kill, IMHO) ZDDP-loaded motor oil. Whether ZDDP is needed or not, in a lightly-used
engine (like all of ours are)....it is 'cheap' insurance and can
not hurt anything, but our pocketbooks---check Hemmings' 6-pack
pricing (photo attachment). Neil Vedder
On 8/3/2014 4:24 PM, Richard Whelan wrote:
We use Brad Penn, made in the old Kendall refinery in
Bradford PA. Similar to Kendall GT-1 with plenty of ZDDP. Dick
Sent: Sunday, August 03, 2014 6:30 PM
Subject: Re: [FWDLK] RB 383 cam
Another approach is to use Valvoline VR-1 racing oil; it has more
ZDDP.
However, a friend showed me an article in the Packard Pelican or whatever
it is that says VR-1 doesn’t have enough detergent. I suspect it’s still
more than oil 50 years ago.
--Roger van Hoy
Sent: Sunday, August 03, 2014 12:16 PM
Subject: Re: [FWDLK] RB 383 cam
I've found two easy ways to get the ZDDP back in the oil. One is to buy the
Redline Break-In Additive and use about 3 oz of it with each oil change.
The other, even easier, is to buy a can of STP, which has the right amount of
ZDDP in it, when you buy the oil and filter and put the STP in along with the
new oil. The advantage of the Redline is that it's actually a little
cheaper per dose and is easy to poor. The STP is thick and hard to
pour. But the STP is available anywhere so it's pretty convenient.
Thanks for the input guys. I agree about the oil.
I've driven the car a total of about 10 miles since buying it from another
list member who also didn't drive it during his ownership I believe.
There is a receipt from a commercial garage showing a ring and bearing job,
but the receipt has no date on it. The inside of the engine is very
clean and the oil isn't bad either so since that minor overhaul it must have
been reasonably maintained, but of course with low ZDDP oil like we are all
stuck with in the mainstream oils. I'm thinking of using rotella once
I'm back up and running since I don't have a converter to get clogged up with
zinc.
Bill & Kathi Parker, South Central Indiana, harboring of bunch of old
and newer Mopars
On Sun, Aug 3, 2014 at 2:12 PM, Neil Vedder <esierraadj@xxxxxxxxxxx>
wrote:
Oh, that must be absolutely true, because nobody in the old car hobby knows about the effects of NOT having ZDDP in flat
tappet car engines. And, of
course, the ruined cam shafts render the car and its engine completely unrepairable and worthless. The car
mechanics, in particular, hate the effects of having to work on these damaged engines. Neil Vedder
On 8/3/2014 12:05 AM, Dave Homstad wrote:
Bill,
You might give some
thought as to WHY the cam
has developed 3 bad lobes.
Here is a good article
about how "OIL IS KILLING OUR CARS!!!!!".
Personnally, I think this
is a plot by the EPA to get old cars off the roads quicker, by removing
the ZDDP from our oils.
Dave Homstad
56 Dodge D500
On Sat, Aug 2, 2014 at
6:43 PM, Bill Parker wrote:
Hello
all, I tore into the '60 Saratoga engine today, an RB 383, and as I
suspected from the symptoms, it has a wiped camshaft. One lobe is
just a little nubbin', and two others are clearly half what they should
be. Seems like a simple cam swap is in order except of course for
the small matter of early B/RB lifters and pushrods being different
dimensions from the later ('66 and later?) stuff. From a previous
experience with putting a cam and lifter kit into a '65 engine, I think I
recall that the late lifters are taller, and must use the late pushrods to
compensate. I could have it backwards, but in any case, I think the
solution to using a late cam and lifter kit is using the late pushrods
too. I have several core 440 engines and I'm thinking, make a cam
selection, buy the late style lifters with it, and use a set of the 440
pushrods (being that both my '60 383 and the 440's are RB engines with the
same deck height). Comments/cautions/suggestions? This is not
my hot rod and I plan to go with a pretty mild cam.
Bill & Kathi
Parker, South Central Indiana, harboring of bunch of old and newer Mopars
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