Re: [FWDLK] WHO CAN DO SOLDERING

Over the years I have heard a lot of people rubbish Pertronix electronic ignition systems because they “fail”, and then they go on to talk about the electronic box failing, which Pertronix does not have.

I would be interested to hear stories from some people who have had actual Pertronix branded units fail, from their own experience and not some folk story heard third hand.

From what I have heard, the “separate box” type electronic ignition units do seem to be problematic, probably chinese made, but no actual Pertronix branded units failing, yet they all get tarred with the same brush.

I am sure that some must fail, there must be millions of them out there and nothing is perfect, but I would like to hear how many Pertronix units here have failed specifically.

Just curious.

Glenn.

From: Adam Lindenbaum

Sent: Friday, August 19, 2011 7:20 PM

To: L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx

Subject: Re: [FWDLK] WHO CAN DO SOLDERING

I learned my lesson with my '58 Fury, it has an MSD ignition and one night in Jersey the box went bad, fun ride in a flatbed home. I've also had the Mopar "Orange" box in the '57 fail me but I learned many years ago with the Mopar electronics to carry spare boxes and ballast resistors. When I redo my '57 I'm putting points back in it, not really possible with the Hemi in the Fury, it needs all of the spark it can get.

Adam

In a message dated 8/19/2011 5:39:56 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, esierraadj@xxxxxxxxxxx writes:

I carry a SPARE points-distributor in the car!,
Neil Vedder

AdamL57@xxxxxxx wrote:
> I personally do not trust pertronix ignitions, I left points in my 318, no
> matter how bad they get they WILL get you home unlike the aftermarket
> electronic conversions. If you use a pertronixs ignition carry a complete points
> set up with you for when it fails.
> Adam Lindenbaum
>
>
> In a message dated 8/19/2011 2:20:02 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> esierraadj@xxxxxxxxxxx writes:
>
> On that Pertronix electronic ignition conversion, Dave forgot
> to mention (for shame, Dave) that you will need to acquire a
> dual-point distributor, and/or a dualie's upper cam-and-plate
> assembly (to install into a single-point dissie, if that's what you
> have, now, or, the dualie can be used to replace the entire
> single-point dissie).
>
> The C&P is needed to accommodate the Pertronix "under-
> cap" (hidden-) electronic ignition system.
>
> At this point, there is a myriad of 'new' issues about the
> performance of your existing dissie and/or a replacement
> dualie-dissie, but, any replacement drop-in dualie-dissie
> must have a shaft length equal to your existing dissie.
>
> There are two different shaft lengths on the FWDLK
> dissies, depending on the year/model of your car.
>
> A dualie FWDLK-era C&P will retrofit into any other
> FWDLK dissie, however, for a Pertronix installation.
>
> And, this is the (very-) SHORT answer about installing
> a Pertronix system, (and, possibly, hot-rodding your
> car's distributor's performance; but, that's a completely
> different, additional very-long story!).
>
> Altho a ballast resistor is not needed w/a Pertronix
> system, you can keep your car's B.-A. still installed,
> but, merely not connected to the distributor.
>
> The Pertronix, all by itself, will NOT improve your
> car's performance (that's what the hot-rodded dissie
> does); it will only make the car's 'spark' consistent,
> hot, and reliable.
>
> Now I know why Dave forgot to mention how/why
> a Pertronix might be installed in a dissie!!!
>
>
> Neil Vedder
>
>
>
>
> Dave Homstad wrote:
>
>> Ed,
>>
>> Some things to consider:
>> 1. You need a 1 ohm resistor that can handle several amps of current.
>> It also should be a "wire wound" style. These are intended to allow
>> maximum current flow when cold, and increase resistance as they warm
>> up to reduce current flow to the ignition coil.
>> 2. These resistors run HOT. You should use a high temperature solder.
>> 3. I see on eBay a modern ballast resistor for sale all the time.
>> Looks nearly identical to the old style except the terminals are
>> different.
>> 4. For my car, I bought a ballast resistor RU13 (looks like the
>> original except for the terminals, from Car Quest, 1.6 ohms).
>> 5. If you convert to a PerTronix, you don't even need a ballast
>> resistor if you use their coil or one with an internal resistance.
>>
>>
>> Dave Homstad
>> 56 Dodge D500
>>
>> On Thu, Aug 18, 2011 at 4:02 PM, eddee@xxxxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
>>
>>
>>> Hello Members
>>>
>>> I have an orig 1957/58 ballast resister   (very rare as we all
>>> know),,,,,,,,,,,,,,,but the resister wire on the back side is shot.
>>>
>>> I have been looking locally for a shop to solder in a new in line 1
>>> ohm resister between the two terminals
>>>
>>> Job is too small--they are not interested.
>>> but it is somewhat intricate since you almost have to solder it blind.
>>>
>>> ANY SUGGESTIONS --Can any of you do this type of soldering??
>>>
>>> ED ECKERSON
>>> LI NY
>>>
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