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I learned my lesson with my '58 Fury, it has an MSD ignition and one
night in Jersey the box went bad, fun ride in a flatbed home. I've also had the
Mopar "Orange" box in the '57 fail me but I learned many years ago with the
Mopar electronics to carry spare boxes and ballast resistors. When I redo my '57
I'm putting points back in it, not really possible with the Hemi in the Fury, it
needs all of the spark it can get.
Adam
In a message dated 8/19/2011 5:39:56 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
esierraadj@xxxxxxxxxxx writes:
I carry
a SPARE points-distributor in the car!,
Neil
Vedder
AdamL57@xxxxxxx wrote:
> I personally do not trust
pertronix ignitions, I left points in my 318, no
> matter how bad
they get they WILL get you home unlike the aftermarket
>
electronic conversions. If you use a pertronixs ignition carry a
complete points
> set up with you for when it fails.
> Adam
Lindenbaum
>
>
> In a message dated 8/19/2011
2:20:02 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> esierraadj@xxxxxxxxxxx
writes:
>
> On that Pertronix electronic ignition
conversion, Dave forgot
> to mention (for shame, Dave) that you
will need to acquire a
> dual-point distributor, and/or a dualie's
upper cam-and-plate
> assembly (to install into a single-point
dissie, if that's what you
> have, now, or, the dualie can be used to
replace the entire
> single-point dissie).
>
> The
C&P is needed to accommodate the Pertronix
"under-
> cap" (hidden-) electronic ignition
system.
>
> At this point, there is a myriad of 'new' issues
about the
> performance of your existing dissie and/or a
replacement
> dualie-dissie, but, any replacement drop-in
dualie-dissie
> must have a shaft length equal to your existing
dissie.
>
> There are two different shaft lengths on
the FWDLK
> dissies, depending on the year/model of your
car.
>
> A dualie FWDLK-era C&P will retrofit into any
other
> FWDLK dissie, however, for a Pertronix
installation.
>
> And, this is the (very-) SHORT answer
about installing
> a Pertronix system, (and, possibly, hot-rodding
your
> car's distributor's performance; but, that's a
completely
> different, additional very-long
story!).
>
> Altho a ballast resistor is not needed w/a
Pertronix
> system, you can keep your car's B.-A. still
installed,
> but, merely not connected to the
distributor.
>
> The Pertronix, all by itself, will NOT
improve your
> car's performance (that's what the hot-rodded
dissie
> does); it will only make the car's 'spark' consistent,
>
hot, and reliable.
>
> Now I know why Dave forgot to mention
how/why
> a Pertronix might be installed in a
dissie!!!
>
>
> Neil
Vedder
>
>
>
>
> Dave Homstad
wrote:
>
>> Ed,
>>
>> Some
things to consider:
>> 1. You need a 1 ohm resistor that can
handle several amps of current.
>> It also should be a "wire
wound" style. These are intended to allow
>> maximum current
flow when cold, and increase resistance as they warm
>> up to
reduce current flow to the ignition coil.
>> 2. These resistors
run HOT. You should use a high temperature solder.
>> 3.
I see on eBay a modern ballast resistor for sale all the time.
>> Looks nearly identical to the old style except the
terminals are
>> different.
>> 4. For my car, I bought
a ballast resistor RU13 (looks like the
>> original except for
the terminals, from Car Quest, 1.6 ohms).
>> 5. If you convert
to a PerTronix, you don't even need a ballast
>> resistor if
you use their coil or one with an internal
resistance.
>>
>>
>> Dave Homstad
>>
56 Dodge D500
>>
>> On Thu, Aug 18, 2011 at 4:02 PM,
eddee@xxxxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
>>
>>
>>> Hello Members
>>>
>>> I have an
orig 1957/58 ballast resister (very rare as we all
>>> know),,,,,,,,,,,,,,,but the resister wire on the back
side is shot.
>>>
>>> I have been looking locally
for a shop to solder in a new in line 1
>>> ohm resister
between the two terminals
>>>
>>> Job is too
small--they are not interested.
>>> but it is somewhat
intricate since you almost have to solder it
blind.
>>>
>>> ANY SUGGESTIONS --Can any of you
do this type of soldering??
>>>
>>> ED
ECKERSON
>>> LI
NY
>>>
>>>
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>
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