I'm wondering if using propane as a refrigerent is any less
safe then using propane to power a vehicle. Here in Arizona, you see propane
powered vehicles on a fairly regular basis & these carry a fairly large
amount of propane.
John
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Sunday, July 07, 2002 7:59 PM
Subject: IML: Refrigerant Findings
Hi All, I thought
the information I found regarding Duracool and other refrigerants would be of
Imperial Interest. :)
After
viewing the Duracool Web site, I was still left with an uneasy feeling about
running a flammable gas as a refrigerant. A review of the MSDS (Material
Safety Data Sheet) revealed Duracool HC-12a has an LEL (lower explosive limit)
in air of 1.95%, and an UEL (upper explosive limit) of 9.1%. By
comparison, gasoline has an LEL of 1.3%, and an UEL of 7.1% (depending on the
MSDS you look at). That said, gasoline has an autoignition temperature
of about 480F, where the Duracool 12a does not autoignite until 1636F.
The propane in DuraCool is not exactly the same composition that you burn in
your grill, but it is still flammable.
Is Duracool a suitable
replacement for R12? IMHO (in my humble opinion), perhaps. Is
Duracool safe? Maybe in a newer car... in a 30-40 year old car with
brittle hoses, potentially leaky fittings, and drying seals.... maybe
not. I've accepted the relative risk of using gasoline in my cars,
tractor, lawn tools, etc., and store cans of it in my garage. I just
don't know that I'm ready to accept the risk of using a compressed flammable
gas as a refrigerant in an
automobile.
Is Duracool legal to
buy and sell? Yes.
Is
Duracool legal to put in an automobile? Definately
Not.
Here is the EPA Link:
http://www.epa.gov/Ozone/snap/refrigerants/hc-12a.html#qdura
Here's a link to a list of approved replacements for
R12:
http://www.epa.gov/Ozone/snap/refrigerants/lists/mvacs.html
I do see some of the replacements that have been mentioned on the IML on the
list.
Now, I have been known to
occasionally break a rule or two (the basic speed law, for one) and that I'm
not a big fan of the EPA, but ...
I will not put Duracool in my vehicles. I will stick with the R-134a
until the next-best-thing comes along. My first conversion to R-134a was
initially unsuccessful only because I failed to read the directions fully... I
charged the system until the sight glass showed no bubbles (well overcharged
with R-134a). I had constant problems with slipping or throwing the belt
(slugging liquid refrigerant into the compressor). R-134 needs only
about 80% of the R-12 charge. As I've said before, I'm not a complete
idiot (some parts are missing).
I
was trolling for car parts in WalMart (or was it Meijer?) the other day, and
it looks like I can do the whole conversion for around
$30.
Maybe it's not the best
solution, and maybe it's not the most efficient, but
it's: A) relatively
safe B)
cheap C) reasonably
efficient D) readily available, and
E)
legal.
Okay, maybe that's a
little more than 2 cents worth...
Be Cool, Steve
Charette
|