Refrigerant Findings

[ImpSvcs@xxxxxxx]

Hi All,
       I thought the information I found regarding Duracool and other refrigerants would be of Imperial Interest.  :)

       After viewing the Duracool Web site, I was still left with an uneasy feeling about running a flammable gas as a refrigerant.  A review of the MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet) revealed Duracool HC-12a has an LEL (lower explosive limit) in air of 1.95%, and an UEL (upper explosive limit) of 9.1%.  By comparison, gasoline has an LEL of 1.3%, and an UEL of 7.1% (depending on the MSDS you look at).  That said, gasoline has an autoignition temperature of about 480F, where the Duracool 12a does not autoignite until 1636F.  The propane in DuraCool is not exactly the same composition that you burn in your grill, but it is still flammable.  

       Is Duracool a suitable replacement for R12?  IMHO (in my humble opinion), perhaps.  Is Duracool safe?  Maybe in a newer car... in a 30-40 year old car with brittle hoses, potentially leaky fittings, and drying seals.... maybe not.  I've accepted the relative risk of using gasoline in my cars, tractor, lawn tools, etc., and store cans of it in my garage.  I just don't know that I'm ready to accept the risk of using a compressed flammable gas as a refrigerant in an automobile.

       Is Duracool legal to buy and sell?  Yes.

       Is Duracool legal to put in an automobile?  Definately Not.
             Here is the EPA Link:  http://www.epa.gov/Ozone/snap/refrigerants/hc-12a.html#qdura

       Here's a link to a list of approved replacements for R12:
             http://www.epa.gov/Ozone/snap/refrigerants/lists/mvacs.html

       I do see some of the replacements that have been mentioned on the IML on the list.

       Now, I have been known to occasionally break a rule or two (the basic speed law, for one) and that I'm not a big fan of the EPA, but ...

       I will not put Duracool in my vehicles.  I will stick with the R-134a until the next-best-thing comes along.  My first conversion to R-134a was initially unsuccessful only because I failed to read the directions fully... I charged the system until the sight glass showed no bubbles (well overcharged with R-134a).  I had constant problems with slipping or throwing the belt (slugging liquid refrigerant into the compressor).  R-134 needs only about 80% of the R-12 charge.  As I've said before, I'm not a complete idiot (some parts are missing).

       I was trolling for car parts in WalMart (or was it Meijer?) the other day, and it looks like I can do the whole conversion for around $30.

       Maybe it's not the best solution, and maybe it's not the most efficient, but it's:
       A) relatively safe
       B) cheap
       C) reasonably efficient
       D) readily available, and 
       E) legal.


       Okay, maybe that's a little more than 2 cents worth...

Be Cool,
Steve Charette