82 Imp EFI won't start/run
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82 Imp EFI won't start/run



Thanks Dick,

I'll try to get working on it tonight or first thing in the morning.

Unfortunately I don't have any spare parts for this car. Now if only it had
a rotary engine (I have 10 RX7's sitting around the house, lots of
parts)....

As it is now, the car just starts, and dies. It will not continue to run,
nor will it run if I open the throttle. If I try to start it with the
throttle open, it will start and the rpm will increase for about a second
and then it just dies, as if the ignition (or fuel) has  simply been turned
off.

I had a quick look at my ASDM and it DID NOT have any external ground wire
attached to it. I pulled the connector off (removed the screw first of
course) and one of the terminals did have signs of corrosion on it. I
cleaned it, greased it and reinstalled. All of the vacuum lies seem to be
routed OK (I'll be double checking them, but at this point the engine isn't
acting like it has a vacuum leak. If I can get it to maintain an idle, I'll
have a better idea of what else might be wrong)
I'll add a ground to the ASDM unit tonight and check the voltages you
suggested.

Thanks again,

Paul


----- Original Message -----
From: "Dick Benjamin" <DickB@xxxxxxxxx>
To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Friday, June 07, 2002 8:59 AM
Subject: Re: IML: 82 Imp EFI won't start/run


> If it idles OK with the air flow defeated (that's what you are doing when
> you fool the computer into letting you start it with the lid off), that
may
> mean there is a problem with the air flow sensor, but that is by no means
> certain.   You'll find it will run OK at idle, but it won't rev throughout
> the range or pull very well.
>
> I'm glad to learn that clearing out the nozzles made such a great
> difference.  I think the main benefit of running with the lid off is that
> you can monitor what the nozzles are doing, and make sure all 8 are
putting
> out a nice clear stream directly into the butterfly area.   Also, you can
> inspect the other plumbing for leaks.
>
> If you find no other problems in there, it is time to go on an Easter Egg
> hunt for what else is wrong.  I take it that it's firing on all 8 now, and
> idling smoothly?
>
> If you have access to a spare air flow sensor, it wouldn't hurt to try it,
> but these seldom fail.  Take a look at the ASDM (the electronic module on
> the passenger side fender with the 5 terminal harness on it.) Make sure
> there is a ground wire from the case flange of that module over to the
> alternator or other solid engine ground.   Since yours is an 82, it should
> be there, but some didn't have it.  This ground wire is essential.
>
> If you have your voltmeter limbered up, take a look at the 23 volt power
> supply output - it goes all over the system, probably the easy place to
get
> it is on the power feed to the throttle position sensor - it is the violet
> wire.  It should be pretty close to 23 volts. Tell us what happens to it
> when the engine stalls, in other words, does it drop before the stall
> (causing it) or after the stall ( as a result).
>
> Unplug the O2 sensor, just to eliminate that area (it should be ignored
> until warm-up time is over anyway.)
>
> You did verify the routing and health of all the vacuum lines, right?
>
> You could try blocking off the line to the EGR to see if that is shutting
> you down.  Same for the other vacuum lines (power brake, PCV, AC controls,
> charcoal canister).  Just plug them all off temporarily to see if there's
> any improvement.   I hope you're a golfer, golf tees are excellent for
this!
>
> As for what your blown fuse was trying to tell you, this is of course
> another long search in your future.   These have been a problem every
since
> the first Chinese proverb mentioned them (what confuses say?).
>
> My apologies,
> Dick Benjamin





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