Dick, If your telling me its a job YOU wouldn't want to handle I think
I will just bring that baby to the shop! If I leave the tank on and just
repair the seam I think I could handle that. Titanium dioxide paint for
$1000 per gallon, I love the extra tidbits of knowledge you provide to
this list, my mundane question takes on a new twist. I wish I had a
dozer. Thank you for the reply, I think I have a clearer idea of what
involved.
Frank
On Wed, 22 May 2002 21:15:12 -0700 "Dick Benjamin" <DickB@xxxxxxxxx>
writes:
> I have repaired them with exactly the same equipment that I used to
> do the
> copper pipe sweat fittings when I built our home. My only caution
> would be
> that you should use the non-acid flux, and don't use a MAPP gas
> torch - they
> are too hot for this thin copper. I think taking the whole tank
> off would
> result in a large amount of soldering, probably too much for someone
> who
> hasn't done it before. I'd be afraid to tackle this much myself,
> unless I
> was in that Sahara desert again.
>
> But if you are brave - have at it! The problem won't come in
> getting the
> top tank off, it will occur when you try to line everything up and
> get it to
> sweat all the way around at the same time without getting a "cold"
> joint
> anywhere. Cleanliness is the watchword here, too. All the metal
> should be
> bright and shiny before you start heating it.
>
> I just repaired a quite large hole in the bottom tank of my dozer's
> radiator
> (a 3/8 bolt got driven right through it!) and so far it's holding
> (fingers
> crossed). The tank was also dented in at the same location, and it
> started
> to crack when I tried to pull it back out. I just soldered a penny
> over
> the hole.
>
> As for the paint, the best paint would be something with zero
> thickness
> (insulation R-value), and a high emissivity/absorptivity ratio.
> Actually,
> the best paint would be titanium dioxide (we used it on high gain
> radar
> dishes to keep from thermal warping in the sun), but it cost almost
> $1000 a
> gallon! (Your tax dollars at work!)
>
> I suppose someone could formulate a better paint than plain Krylon
> flat
> black, but they'd have to be quite knowledgeable about the physics
> of
> thermal emission - I question whether anyone with that background is
> employed compounding paint, but perhaps there is such a vendor.
>
> Dick Benjamin
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Frank Griffin <frankrad4@xxxxxxxx>
> To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Wednesday, May 22, 2002 8:40 PM
> Subject: Re: IML: Gunk radiator repair?
>
>
> > I have seen radiator paint for sale that is supposed to allow
> better
> > heat transfer, I wonder if this paint is any different from any
> flat
> > black engine paint. I have a propane torch, is the solder and flux
> any
> > different from what you would use for a copper pipe? Is it beyond
> a DIY
> > to remove the whole tank? I think the dent is repairable, it is
> very
> > blunt without any sharp creases to push out.
> > Frank
> >
> > On Wed, 22 May 2002 17:26:39 -0700 "Dick Benjamin"
> <DickB@xxxxxxxxx>
> > writes:
> > > In general, it is a good idea to be very sparing with paint on a
> > > radiator,
> > > as it impedes the heat transfer. If you want to paint the
> tanks,
> > > fine, but
> > > keep to a very thin 'dusting' of flat black on the fins.
> > >
> > > Putting sealant in a car is always a last resort, as it
> inevitably
> > > hastens
> > > the day when the whole cooling system will need to be cleaned
> out,
> > > including
> > > the block passages. If I were stuck with a hole in my radiator
> in
> > > the
> > > middle of the Sahara Desert and only one 6-pack of beer to keep
> the
> > > cooling
> > > system full, I'd use sealer too (I'd use the powdered aluminum
> stuff
> > > that is
> > > usually next to the cash register at your local NAPA store,
> which
> > > sells for
> > > 99 cents), but unless it is an emergency like that, I think you
> > > should have
> > > it fixed right. If they take the top tank off to fix it,
> perhaps
> > > you can
> > > persuade them to push the dent out for you, but copper is
> > > notoriously
> > > brittle when it gets old, they may refuse to take the chance.
> > > Depending on
> > > how bad the leak is, and where it is, they may be able to solder
> it
> > > for you
> > > without even removing it from the car (or if you have a propane
> > > torch and
> > > the right solder and flux, you can do it yourself).
> > >
> > > Dick Benjamin
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: Frank Griffin <frankrad4@xxxxxxxx>
> > > To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> > > Sent: Wednesday, May 22, 2002 10:22 AM
> > > Subject: IML: Gunk radiator repair?
> > >
> > >
> > > > I have developed a small leak in my radiator, it is at the
> seam
> > > where
> > > > the top tank is. Someone suggested using the some gunk sealer
> to
> > > fix it.
> > > > Can it do any harm adding it to my Imps cooling system? If I
> pull
> > > the
> > > > radiator and bring it to a shop to be fixed I plan on
> repainting
> > > it
> > > > before I put it back in the car. I would like to remove a ding
> > > that is on
> > > > the top of the tank near the corner. Do they do do that sort
> of
> > > thing at
> > > > radiator shops and how much more would it add to the cost of
> > > repairing
> > > > the seam?
> > > > Frank
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
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