I've received a couple of responses that tell me that I gave the wrong idea when I talked about "stripping" my car. I haven't taken the paint off, I have removed all the removable parts, including doors, front end sheet metal, interior, mechanical parts etc. My idea is to make the car a rolling shell so that every body part will be painted the finish color on all surfaces, including factory type overspray on the interior sheet metal, so that it will look as if it left the factory in the new color I've chosen. While I am doing the parts removal and cleaning type of preparation work myself to save money and to be sure no parts are damaged or lost, I have engaged a professional restoration shop to do the actual paint work for me, and they'll decide on what they need in the way of paint removal. As for taking paint off, I believe that there is no need to take it down to bare metal if the old paint has no adhesion problems. Use it as a base coat under your new primer. It has already held on to the metal all these years, there's no reason to think it will fail now. Of course if there is body damage or any evidence of rust, you do have to take those areas down to bare metal. I prefer to sandblast, then coat with a very good primer (like DP-40) to prevent recurring problems. If the rust is really severe, you are probably going to need POR-15 or Corroless rust treatment, but you need to read up on those to learn how to use them. The problem with chemical strippers is that they tend to be very hard to remove from the nooks and crannies, and will cause problems for the new paint in the future. Of course there are potential problems with sand blasting also, the car really has to be devoid of any moving parts before you sand blast, and of course all the glass and trim has to be removed also. You can mask off an area for localized sand blasting, but in my experience, the sand somehow always seems to get into some place you don't want it, like door hinges and the like. Dick Benjamin