> Hi All. > Has anyone on the list ever change the turn signal switch on a 68 imperial > with the tilt and telescope steering wheel. > Mine is bad and I can,t figure out how to pull the tube off of the column I > do not have the special tool can I make one and how would you make one. > Thanks. > Bob Bob, We have some past IML advice on th esubject collected here: http://www.imperialclub.com/Repair/Electrical/turn.htm Since the site is still not back to normal, I'll paste the relevant advice below. Good Luck! Mike Trettin 1956 Imperial Sedan, Turquoise ___________________________________________________________ Question from Larry (1968): This is a request for some help with turn signals on my 68 Crown...I've determined that either the switch or the wires between the switch and the plug-in, is at fault. My question is: How do I get the switch out of this tilt steering column? I have removed the 3 screws that hold the switch, and it is loose but will not come out of the upper end of the tube. The opening in the top of the tube is just too small for the switch to pass through. What am I missing?? Replies: >From Dick: I have taken my turn signal switch out of my 68 with tilt-o-scope, but it was not fun. You have to remove the individual wires from the connector on the steering column under the dash, and fish them all the way out the top. You need a special tool to get the steering column back together because you have to loosen the tilt-o-scope assembly to get the stuff through and out. If you possibly can, try to repair the switch in place, without removing it. If you disconnect it electrically, you should be able to pull it up far enough to work on the contacts. What are your symptoms? >From Chris: I have replaced my own turn signal switch (in my 67) and it was not easy. First, find a new switch. My local C-P dealer (Prince in Inglewood, CA) had one in stock (it looked like it had been on the shelf since 1973). *Before doing ANY electrical work on any car, always disconnect the battery! * Second, put the steering wheel in a straight-ahead position (so you can reinstall it correctly later) and remove it. You need to remove the horn switch assembly (the chrome crossbars and center ring) and the tilt-a-scope adjuster (careful! There's a big coil spring back there!). It's all pretty obvious up to this point. You'll need a steering wheel puller to remove the actual wheel once you loosen and remove the central nut. Pullers cost about $10 at any Napa store or similar. Worth having... Once the steering wheel is off, you'll see the plastic switch (actually it's about all you'll see in there). Remove the turn signal lever (there's a screw holding it on, I believe), then the screws holding in the switch, and then get out your flashlight and look at the lower end of the steering column. You'll see the wiring harness coming out the other end (you can match colors from the top of the column to identify it), and it won't look small enough to fit up through the steering column, but it does with a trick: Tie a small but long wire or string around the wires and above the connector (you'll be using it to guide the new wiring back down, so make sure the bottom end of the string doesn't come up with the wiring). Then, reset the tilting column so it's parallel the whole way. This will leave as much room as possible. Go back up to the switch and work it out the top of the column. (It will seem not to fit out the rolled edge of the column sleeve, but it does.) You'll have to work the wiring up through the column and you'll be tempted to cut off the connector but it will come out. Make sure the string stays in the column! When it's out, take a much needed rest stop, wipe off your brow, and untie the wire or string. Tie it to the new harness in the same place, then feed the wiring into the column until the switch is almost in place. Go underneath and use the string to pull the harness down, and then work the new switch and wiring into position. Plug it all in, reattach the horn and steering wheel, reconnect the battery and signal away! Follow-up from Larry: I do not have a service manual for the 68, so today I stopped by the parts department at the Chrysler Dealer and got a copy of the exploded view of the entire steering column. With this bit of added information, I determined that the switch MUST come through that small opening in the tube....with a little added effort I did manage to persuade the switch out. The red wire (current supply) is broken right close to the switch. The switch will not work even by hooking this red wire together. It may be possible to repair the switch, but I have not attempted that yet. All of the turn lights worked properly when I plugged a turn switch from a 69 Road Runner into the Imperial. No cornering lights of course, and the switch is completely different. I asked the Chrysler parts mgr. if a replacement switch was available from Chrysler, and his information tells him that it is. He told me the price was about $60. Napa tells me that it is also available from them for $180. I'm not out of the woods yet, but I think I'm headed in the right direction.