Hi Mike and Christine.
Thank for the help.
I have the switch out but getting it back in has not been fun.
I have decided to stop for know and get some advise on how to get it back
in.
Thank you.
Bob
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike & Christine Trettin" <mtrettin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, March 21, 2002 6:17 PM
Subject: Re: IML: need help (1968 Turn Signal Switch)
> > Hi All.
> > Has anyone on the list ever change the turn signal switch on a 68
imperial
> > with the tilt and telescope steering wheel.
> > Mine is bad and I can,t figure out how to pull the tube off of the
column
> I
> > do not have the special tool can I make one and how would you make one.
> > Thanks.
> > Bob
>
> Bob,
>
> We have some past IML advice on th esubject collected here:
> http://www.imperialclub.com/Repair/Electrical/turn.htm
>
> Since the site is still not back to normal, I'll paste the relevant advice
> below.
>
> Good Luck!
>
> Mike Trettin
> 1956 Imperial Sedan, Turquoise
>
> ___________________________________________________________
>
> Question from Larry (1968):
>
> This is a request for some help with turn signals on my 68 Crown...I've
> determined that either the switch or the wires between the switch and the
> plug-in, is at fault. My question is: How do I get the switch out of this
> tilt steering column? I have removed the 3 screws that hold the switch,
and
> it is loose but will not come out of the upper end of the tube. The
opening
> in the top of the tube is just too small for the switch to pass through.
> What am I missing??
>
> Replies:
>
> >From Dick:
>
> I have taken my turn signal switch out of my 68 with tilt-o-scope, but it
> was not fun. You have to remove the individual wires from the connector on
> the steering column under the dash, and fish them all the way out the top.
> You need a special tool to get the steering column back together because
you
> have to loosen the tilt-o-scope assembly to get the stuff through and out.
> If you possibly can, try to repair the switch in place, without removing
it.
> If you disconnect it electrically, you should be able to pull it up far
> enough to work on the contacts. What are your symptoms?
>
> >From Chris:
>
> I have replaced my own turn signal switch (in my 67) and it was not easy.
> First, find a new switch. My local C-P dealer (Prince in Inglewood, CA)
had
> one in stock (it looked like it had been on the shelf since 1973). *Before
> doing ANY electrical work on any car, always disconnect the battery! *
> Second, put the steering wheel in a straight-ahead position (so you can
> reinstall it correctly later) and remove it. You need to remove the horn
> switch assembly (the chrome crossbars and center ring) and the
tilt-a-scope
> adjuster (careful! There's a big coil spring back there!). It's all pretty
> obvious up to this point. You'll need a steering wheel puller to remove
the
> actual wheel once you loosen and remove the central nut. Pullers cost
about
> $10 at any Napa store or similar. Worth having...
>
> Once the steering wheel is off, you'll see the plastic switch (actually
it's
> about all you'll see in there). Remove the turn signal lever (there's a
> screw holding it on, I believe), then the screws holding in the switch,
and
> then get out your flashlight and look at the lower end of the steering
> column. You'll see the wiring harness coming out the other end (you can
> match colors from the top of the column to identify it), and it won't look
> small enough to fit up through the steering column, but it does with a
> trick: Tie a small but long wire or string around the wires and above the
> connector (you'll be using it to guide the new wiring back down, so make
> sure the bottom end of the string doesn't come up with the wiring).
>
> Then, reset the tilting column so it's parallel the whole way. This will
> leave as much room as possible. Go back up to the switch and work it out
the
> top of the column. (It will seem not to fit out the rolled edge of the
> column sleeve, but it does.) You'll have to work the wiring up through the
> column and you'll be tempted to cut off the connector but it will come
out.
> Make sure the string stays in the column! When it's out, take a much
needed
> rest stop, wipe off your brow, and untie the wire or string. Tie it to the
> new harness in the same place, then feed the wiring into the column until
> the switch is almost in place. Go underneath and use the string to pull
the
> harness down, and then work the new switch and wiring into position. Plug
it
> all in, reattach the horn and steering wheel, reconnect the battery and
> signal away!
>
> Follow-up from Larry:
>
> I do not have a service manual for the 68, so today I stopped by the parts
> department at the Chrysler Dealer and got a copy of the exploded view of
the
> entire steering column. With this bit of added information, I determined
> that the switch MUST come through that small opening in the tube....with a
> little added effort I did manage to persuade the switch out. The red wire
> (current supply) is broken right close to the switch. The switch will not
> work even by hooking this red wire together. It may be possible to repair
> the switch, but I have not attempted that yet. All of the turn lights
worked
> properly when I plugged a turn switch from a 69 Road Runner into the
> Imperial. No cornering lights of course, and the switch is completely
> different. I asked the Chrysler parts mgr. if a replacement switch was
> available from Chrysler, and his information tells him that it is. He told
> me the price was about $60. Napa tells me that it is also available from
> them for $180. I'm not out of the woods yet, but I think I'm headed in the
> right direction.
>
>
>
>
>
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