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I'm not sure about a 69, mine's a 67 and today I
managed to get the sleeve off. I used a 3 claw puller and hooked the
claws to the inner lip that actually keeps the switch from having enough
room to come out. I screwed the center shaft of the puller into the
steering shaft and put enough pressure to start to see the lip bend. I then took
a forked ball joint tool and placed it perpendicular under the head of the
puller shaft and rapped it with a mechanics hammer. It took about 4 blows and
off it came. I had also previously oiled the sleeve with WD40.
Boy was I relieved! Now I'm sceptical if
this repair arm is going to work, it doen't just slip in. I've had to modify it
to hopefully work. Wish me luck!
Chris Strohmeyer
67 Imperial Convertible
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Thursday, March 01, 2007 6:50
PM
Subject: Re: IML: signal sw. removal
67-69 imperial
I agree; After seeing the pics & write up, I feel
more tempted to change the switch on my 69 now. I'm still a bit confused about
how you pull the sleeve off with a slide hammer? It doesn't appear to have
much room to get in there.
John
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Thursday, March 01, 2007 11:01
AM
Subject: Re: IML: signal sw. removal 67
imperial
Ken and Chris,
Maybe you could include a scan of those two pages and add them to the
really well written and photographed explaination that
Ken submitted to the Website.
-Mike in Oregon
On 2/28/07, Chris
Strohmeyer <chrisstroh@xxxxxxxxxxx>
wrote:
Below
is what I read on the Imp club site, but he doesn't mention HOW
this
outer column sleeve is physically attached. Does it
drive off? Is it just a
press fit? Dick Benjemin mentions
to bend the switch to get it out without
removing the sleeve, but at
the price of these switches I don't want to take
the chance of breaking
the existing one which I may be able to be repaired.
Mine has the red
color and has no broken parts but the main rivet that holds
it together
might be the problem. I don't really need to get it all the way
out, I
just need it outside the sleeve to see what's keeping it from staying
engaged when the signal lever is depressed. It's possible that
whomever
replaced this switch might have damaged it forcing it in
there.
So how do I get this sleeve off and what is this special tool to
remove it?
Thx,
Chris Strohmeyer
67 Imperial Convertible
(read below)
I presume getting that tubular sleeve off is what
is stopping you cold. One
way to get it off is to use a piece of
hardwood or a nylon drift (available
at gun shops, looks like a glue
stick) to tap it loose from the tilt opening
(the lever screws out,
just twist it!) and then work a screwdriver into the
gap at the base of
the column. My car would have none of that, that !@#$
sleeve was
TIGHT! What I wound up doing was to pry the lip up with a
scgewdriver
(in an attempt to loosen the sleeve, no deal!) I then attached a
pair
of vise-grips to two sides of the pried up lip and alternately hammered
on the vise-grips to get the !@#$ off! Once off I measured up to the
mangled
part and carefully wrapped masking tape around the outside, cut
off the
mangled 3/8 inch or so and filed down to the edge of the tape.
The tape
protected the paint on the sleeve and if someone didn't know
the sleeve had
a lip, you can't tell it has ever been altered! It's all
hidden by the wheel
anyway. Best of all, if the switch ever needs
replacing again, the sheeve
won't have to be
touched!
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