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I agree; After seeing the pics & write up, I feel more
tempted to change the switch on my 69 now. I'm still a bit confused about how
you pull the sleeve off with a slide hammer? It doesn't appear to have much room
to get in there.
John
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Thursday, March 01, 2007 11:01
AM
Subject: Re: IML: signal sw. removal 67
imperial
Ken and Chris,
Maybe you could include a scan of those two pages and add them to the
really well written and photographed explaination that
Ken submitted to the Website.
-Mike in Oregon
On 2/28/07, Chris
Strohmeyer <chrisstroh@xxxxxxxxxxx>
wrote:
Below
is what I read on the Imp club site, but he doesn't mention HOW
this
outer column sleeve is physically attached. Does it
drive off? Is it just a
press fit? Dick Benjemin mentions to
bend the switch to get it out without
removing the sleeve, but at the
price of these switches I don't want to take
the chance of breaking the
existing one which I may be able to be repaired.
Mine has the red color
and has no broken parts but the main rivet that holds
it together might
be the problem. I don't really need to get it all the way
out, I just
need it outside the sleeve to see what's keeping it from staying
engaged
when the signal lever is depressed. It's possible that whomever
replaced
this switch might have damaged it forcing it in there.
So how do I get
this sleeve off and what is this special tool to remove it?
Thx,
Chris Strohmeyer
67 Imperial Convertible (read
below)
I presume getting that tubular sleeve off is what is
stopping you cold. One
way to get it off is to use a piece of hardwood or
a nylon drift (available
at gun shops, looks like a glue stick) to tap
it loose from the tilt opening
(the lever screws out, just twist it!) and
then work a screwdriver into the
gap at the base of the column. My car
would have none of that, that !@#$
sleeve was TIGHT! What I wound up
doing was to pry the lip up with a
scgewdriver (in an attempt to loosen
the sleeve, no deal!) I then attached a
pair of vise-grips to two sides
of the pried up lip and alternately hammered
on the vise-grips to get
the !@#$ off! Once off I measured up to the mangled
part and carefully
wrapped masking tape around the outside, cut off the
mangled 3/8 inch or
so and filed down to the edge of the tape. The tape
protected the paint
on the sleeve and if someone didn't know the sleeve had
a lip, you can't
tell it has ever been altered! It's all hidden by the wheel
anyway. Best
of all, if the switch ever needs replacing again, the sheeve
won't have
to be touched!
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